Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

John, nothing in particular as far as the actual intended compression ratios. Build it for what you want to get from it. Easier to drive more average power and more responsive but less peak power go hi comp, dyno queen go low comp with peaky massive turbo :)

Mark (Scooby) that should be decent, but my 26 made 260 on the stock computer. Go back for refund or more power. :huh: Good luck after run in.

Steve the cams and I understand crank angle sensor are different but all else is the same. I see you are racing at the "Bank". Let us know next time you run and I'll round up the boys from the Switch to come watch and ponder just why anyone would be so silly with a 120 :)

In for sure Geoff, Havnt seen that 120 ynot out their to date. Should be an interesting toy.

On the oil pump issue, I went the Jun not for the High volume flow but simply because it is touted as a stronger more reliable pump than the N1. Also did the collar deal as extra insurance.

Steve the cams and I understand crank angle sensor are different but all else is the same. I see you are racing at the "Bank". Let us know next time you run and I'll round up the boys from the Switch to come watch and ponder just why anyone would be so silly with a 120 :huh:

AHAHAHA I sure will Geoff, and thanks... I think my mate is crazy fitting a 2JZ into a HR Holden and expecting to come away from Summernats in one piece.

OK here's a question for the airflow gurus, Geoff that means you. :nyaanyaa:

The 26/30 will not allow use of the standard airbox in the R32 GTR easily. Obvious choice is to use pods but extra height of the RB30 makes it quite difficult to accomodate pods with any kind of meaningful airbox.

I'm thinking of feeding both AFMs by having them draw air from the back of one big arse pod filter, which could be accomodated by cutting a hole in the area immediately below the airbox.

The filter area would be ample, and construction of the airbox would be relatively easy. If you look on the SSS Automotive website you'll see that their blue Improved Production car runs this type of system.

Any thoughts / ideas on this approach?

Edited by Scooby

I use that location for my air filter but there are problems.

When it rains or the road is wet the spray can be taken up, and that sends the AFMs into error as the ECU thinks they are maxing out. The right thing to do then is box it correctly to remove the spray from the NSF tyre from the problem. I'm yet to examine the effects from following closely a car putting up serious spray.

Also the location is very dirty due to the tyre proximity.

I use that location for my air filter but there are problems.

When it rains or the road is wet the spray can be taken up, and that sends the AFMs into error as the ECU thinks they are maxing out. The right thing to do then is box it correctly to remove the spray from the NSF tyre from the problem. I'm yet to examine the effects from following closely a car putting up serious spray.

Also the location is very dirty due to the tyre proximity.

Due to the plastic wheel arch guard I'm not sure what the problem would be from NSF tyre? I can see that on the 32 GTR there would be an issue with spray coming in through the vent in the front bar but I'd counter that by making a shield.

Any thoughts on feeding the two AFMs from one big filter?

No problem with that at all. Unless there is a serious restriction on either intake path the action of the turbos will pretty much equalise intake, as well the afm signals are averaged in the PFC.

That guard liner is about as secure as a leaf in a hurricane. Both mine on the track car ripped out at about 200kmh.

No problem with that at all. Unless there is a serious restriction on either intake path the action of the turbos will pretty much equalise intake, as well the afm signals are averaged in the PFC.

That guard liner is about as secure as a leaf in a hurricane. Both mine on the track car ripped out at about 200kmh.

Thanks Geoff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...