Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

black_gtst Proficient

black_gtst

Posted
Posted

im sure there would be something somewhere on sau bout this but what is involved in putting an rb30-25 in an r32? i have heard r33 g/b is needed and also a new computer loom etc. got a mate who is looking at doing this and has a forged 30 lined up

thanks guys!

brett

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
im sure there would be something somewhere on sau bout this but what is involved in putting an rb30-25 in an r32? i have heard r33 g/b is needed and also a new computer loom etc. got a mate who is looking at doing this and has a forged 30 lined up

thanks guys!

brett

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html

RB120WHY Enthusiast

RB120WHY

Posted
Posted
its most likely been asked before but but i dont really want to be looking back 100's of pages lol anyway where do you get the crank collar modification from and what does it do exactly?

My engine guy is making mine up and is also turning up the restrictors as well. I have given him a heap of parts and his job is to make it all work together and get any bits i missed out on, acl race bearings etc.

My engine bay is painted and ready to slide the big girl in :thumbsup: Just need a finished motor.

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted
The guys that read my posts regularly know what's coming next............

Boost is irrelevant. Airflow makes horsepower, boost is simply a measure of the restrictions to that airflow. It is possible to make more power at lower boost levels, just remove the restrictions. A simplistic example, the T04Z is quite capable of 70 lbs/min of airlfow, enough for 800 bhp or so. It can do that sort of airflow from around 1.4 bar to 2.2 bar, but 2.2 bar will be outside the optimum efficiency island. So the air will be hotter coming out of the turbo, hence you would need a much bigger intercooler, less ignition advance, richer A/F ratios, lower static compression ratio etc etc. That all leads to more lag, same horsepower. So why would you want to run 2.2 bar if it can make 800 bhp at 1.4 bar? The only reason you run more boost is because you haven't done a very good job in removing restrictions.

R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
Posted (edited)
Can anyone pm me the .pdf file cubes made on this engine build please as i can not d/load it off the links given.

i was ment to have a read of that thing a while ago but ended up forgetting....

fantastic read cubes ur a legend....

im so happy i went forgies.....i thought it was such a waste of money for the power rating i was after but u can never be to safe i guess.. :P

Edited by R34NRG
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Could you explain more on the squirters in the conrods?

No, sorry it's not my information to hand out. Take a look at some current generation high performance engines (Honda K20 etc) and you will get the idea.

is worth it Ceramic coating and how much will it set you back?

If you are doing track work, then it helps with keeping the heat in the combustion chamber and not through the piston crown and hence the oil. Oil retentiion coating on the piston skirts is also worthwhile as it slows down the wear when you are running race type clearances. For a road only engine neither are necessary.

Cheers

Gary

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
I am looking into the RB30/25 build but mine is going into an EH holden >.< at 9:1 what kind of boost can i run max?

On pump fuel, i am going to be using 20psi MAX. The quality and consistency of Australian pump fuel is not the best.

On race fuel, boost could be wound up much higher.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • Nydt
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By Nydt · Posted

      I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hence why I suggested some tests.
×
×
  • Create New...