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N1 is far more brittle and more prone to failure if you hit the rev limiter, and you just don't need that extra oil pressure which is simply sucking power, as well as too much pressure can strip the white metal out of the bearings so the stock 25/26 pump is more than you need for up to 700hp.

while we are on the subject of oil pumps?

may i ask whats suitable for my set up? Im planning around around 350-400kw and was planning on using a rb25det oil pump as I have a r33 25t at my disposal and was just going to pull the oil pump of that motor or try find another 2nd hand one?

Or would it be better buying a 2nd hand 26 oil pump?

and also what prices would i be looking at roughly if i had to buy a new oil pump for a 25det and 26dett?

anyone elseodne this in cefiro??

i so how id ya go with bonnet shutting?

will prob lower crossmembe while i have the motor out..

I'm building an RB25/30 at the moment to go into my cefiro, I'm not sure if there are going to be bonnet closing issues. In the members rides under the 4door section of this forum a guy has put an RB30 into his laurfiro, I asked if he had issues with clearances and he said no, so hopefully it'll be fine.

while we are on the subject of oil pumps?

may i ask whats suitable for my set up? Im planning around around 350-400kw and was planning on using a rb25det oil pump as I have a r33 25t at my disposal and was just going to pull the oil pump of that motor or try find another 2nd hand one?

Or would it be better buying a 2nd hand 26 oil pump?

and also what prices would i be looking at roughly if i had to buy a new oil pump for a 25det and 26dett?

As already stated, I have found no differences between the 25 and 26 pump. Flow rate is listed as the same, visually they are the same. Just strip it and check the clearances, assemble with loctit on the screws, do the drive extension on the crank and enjoy.

Not surprisingly the rb20det turbo simply could not keep up. :P

176rwkw on 9psi boost would just not hold from the 12psi straight off the actuator with no boost controller.

Mine likes to overboost, sometimes rolling on hard in the lower gears will make it do it but since I tweaked my ebc it doesn't really do it anymore.

Usually when I wind 4th or 5th out it starts to climb up to 14psi+

Mine likes to overboost, sometimes rolling on hard in the lower gears will make it do it but since I tweaked my ebc it doesn't really do it anymore.

Usually when I wind 4th or 5th out it starts to climb up to 14psi+

Interesting.. Mine was straight off the actuator with no EBC or bleeder. With the bleeder it wouldn't hold boost.

hey all..

just about to start my first motor build, glad i chose the rb25/30 :D

its for my a31 cefiro, as after a recent run at the track cracked 4 rings and a few rooted valves on my rb20.

my plans are a decent condition series 2 bottom end..

with everything converted from my rb20 ie. balancer, power steering etc

using the high low setup for the dayco timing belt

genuine replacement rings and a hone

check bottom end bearings and such.

hoping for r32 rb25de head..

machined head

aftermarket valve springs

genuine head gasket

possible rb25det oil pump?? (crank collar needed??)

tomei oil restrictors

they are parts required.

on my rb20 i was running

hks cast low mount manifold

hks 38mm external gate

hks to4e turbo

3inch turbo to tip no cat no mufflers

isc front mount cooler

shitty bleed valve

walbro fuel pump.

plan to use all them on the rb25/30

whats everyone think of that setup??

im not after huge power, happy as larry with anything near 200rwkw

will be using stock afm, injectors and ecu for run in period..

then upgrade injectors and afm and get ecu remap...

what power is accheivable??

this thread is the bomb..

took me about 4 days to read all 335 pages but its so worth it :D

cheers guys

Heres a link to my rb30 cefiro project. Some of the engine mods are quite similar to what you are proposing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ce...21#entry4041421

Somehow i managed to not notice that there is a hole behind the water pump (sort of where the thermostat sits) that has nothing in it. does the opening need to be used when its put into an R33 GTS-T (i noticed on an R32 RB20 it has what looks like a heater hose coming out of it?) or should i just fit a welsh plug?

post-32350-1217761027_thumb.jpg

That usually has a pressed in steel hose with a Y sort of shape for the heater return and I think the throttle water heater return or something. I guess you could live without it if you had to. When the water gets hot enough the thermostat opens and flows to the radiator top tank.

If you were to bypass all the throttle and inlet manifold water cooling from that Y piece, you can run it straight to the turbo water feed as that is where it normally ends up after all the rest of it.

Good idea. BTW Michael, I have an intake as you are looking for in your sig, just no IAC block, but I barely use the one on the 26/30. Only really idle control and a 25 one could be adapted I think.

hey does any1 have a .doc file or anything in regards to how to strengthen the standard rods? Am looking at around 500hp for my 30det have forged pistons but planning on strengthening the standard rods as i hav been told that they are tough

im not planning on reving more then 7000rpm maybe 6000 6500 max is it suitable? so you reckon just to whack the std rod in, i have been told about penning? kind of just touched on and also sanding the rods? Yes no? been told its a cheap effective way

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