Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Regardless more than 7.5k and u really should be running an aftermarket balancer.

So its either you go all out or you don't.

Standard rods resized with new bolts.

Price up what you want done to the std rods and then compare the price to spool import forged rods and you will see why its useless spending $$ on the stock rods.

has any one tried their luck with grabbing their series 2 motor from a wreckers then slappping the head on with new head gasket>?

like not touching the rings or bearings in the bottom end???

has any one tried their luck with grabbing their series 2 motor from a wreckers then slappping the head on with new head gasket>?

like not touching the rings or bearings in the bottom end???

I know a couple of guys who have whacked together something rough and cheap, seems to be working fine for them pushing decent power? You looking into doing it yourself?

its just an idea at this stage as my motor seems rather heallthy...

the factory hone marks are still looking good.

i was thinking of putting rb30et oil pump and that being the only real change to the bottom end..

will be chucking in head oil restrictors also...

im havingtrouble finding any place tha can suply the tomei press fit oil restrictors...

what kinda of power figures are your mates cars running???

im running a hks T04e turbo.. i cant imagine it flowing enough to get anything over 270rwkw..

ill be happy to get over 200 at the wheels..

i have just brought dahtone racing (from this forum) head from his 32 which has been ported and running gtr valve springs..

all i would be buying would be genuin head gasket a idler and a genuine water pump and thermostat....

oh reallly..... maybe not such a good idea with the restrictors aswell as the 30et pump??

wat pump would you suggest going with...

my other thought was a rb25det pump....

was not sure if you needed the crank collar if you went with the series one oil pump???

cheeeers

oh reallly..... maybe not such a good idea with the restrictors aswell as the 30et pump??

wat pump would you suggest going with...

my other thought was a rb25det pump....

was not sure if you needed the crank collar if you went with the series one oil pump???

cheeeers

yeh i would suggest the rb25det oil pump few of the guys suggested that to me also. you should get 200 at the wheels easy just whacking it together, some guys on the forums are talking fairly big numbers, but even saying that iv been told the factory bottom end can hold upto 500hp.

I saying that say you spend 1g max putting the 30 together on a very cheap its not gonna hurt as much as spending 5-6k and blowing it up right?

you should use a thicker gasket maybe?just an idea but im planning on using a multi layer rb26dett.

Im planning on using restricters with the 25det oil pump? Is this right/wrong?

Edited by Redliner007

Why not to use an RB30 oil pump... well it's just a bit skinny. Restrictors will be good with the 25/26 pump. Don't need to drop the CR at all so just use a single factory 25 head gasket. The collar is a damn good idea, and Nissan eventually made it standard across all RBs I know of after the 33GTSt and later model GTR32s to give a wider oil pump drive.

post-6392-1217987830_thumb.jpg

post-6392-1217988114_thumb.jpg

thanks for the offer geoff....but dad ended up getting a whole 26 head the other week anyway. So i need to change that sig now lol...Even so, we wouldnt have needed the idle control anyway...race car we just do it manually...one less valve, less weight and clutter :thumbsup:

what about leaving the stock rb30 oil pump and not running any restrictors or anything????

i planned on just using a stock nissan rb30 head gasket...

its my understanding that to fit the crank collar the crank has to be removed from the block and fitted professionally, is this correct????

cheeers

ps just ordered my dayco timing belt threw repco, cost me $60 cuz they had to order it..

what has anyone paid for a genuine rb25 idler???

haha yep ripco for sure ay...

spewing. as their is also a sprints in my town too...

oh well repco is just a pushy ride away and already paid for...

where abouts can ya purchase the head oil restritors??

yeoooowww

what about leaving the stock rb30 oil pump and not running any restrictors or anything????

its my understanding that to fit the crank collar the crank has to be removed from the block and fitted professionally, is this correct????

anyone got a spare rb25 idler sitting around??

haha

I would presume the stock rb30 pump should be ok with stock restrictors.

I remember some one on ct.com had issues with pressure bleeding off on idle with the rb30e pump. Unsure if it was a stuffed bottom end, pump etc.

Wouldn't use an idler. Use 2 x tensioners.

oh okay rekon i go with two tensioners.... its best to determen where to drill the hole for the second one after you have your timing belt?

so to get the right tension kinda thing??

salesman and a half you are dahtone.. haha im already in debt to ya..

does crank need to be removed to fit the crank collar??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...