Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by JNR24

Powergrip Industries (Aust) Pty Ltd

ph: (03) 9890 0344  Belting Mfrs & Supplies

Yes, that's the one. They actually get the belt from Gates and cut the width down themselves to 25mm. They also have a web site at:

http://www.powergrip.com.au/

Ok, now i'm seriously confused. To my knowledge i have an rb30e block. Series two. Bought it out of a car. It has one sensor (electical plug) screwed it between cyl. 5 & 6 on the drivers side (towards the back).

There are three holes just below the top of the block (~60mm down), and are ~150mm apart. They are tapped, but only go into the block then stop.(sorry, never removed a knock sensor b4). One is above the right engine mount, the sencond is above the oil fliter, the third is 150mm back.

What i thought was the knock sensor is between the last two.

Am i right? Are these holes the positions for knock sensors, if so what is the plug by itself?

Can any 1 take photos?

sorry for the questions, just wanna learn :wave:

Originally posted by Bl4cK32

There are three holes just below the top of the block (~60mm down), and are ~150mm apart. They are tapped, but only go into the block then stop

These are the knock sensor bosses. The RB30ET only uses the middle one.

On an RB2x block with 2 knock sensors, they are screwed into the 2 bosses close to each end of the block.....the RB30E block has the exact same bosses in pretty much the exact same place, so it's just a matter of unscrewing them from the old RB2x engine and screwing them into the RB30 block. They even have exactly the same taper thread. I have my bottom end built and the sensors in place, but don't have a digital camera at the moment, otherwise I'd post a pic.

As to the other electrical connection you mention, sounds like the oil pressure sender....is it right next to the oil filter ???

right i checked my block(rb30). The sensor next to the oil filter has a fine thread on it. It has another hole in line with it but its on the engine mount? same thread. These are in the same positions as the two sensors on my rb20. The rb20 sensors have coarse thread. go figure?

I have a large sensor next to the oil filter on the rb20. This has a plugin the middle, and what looks like a spot for a couple of wires soldered each side of it.

Im confused....

The sensor just to the left of the oil filter (ie toward the rear of the block) is the oil pressure sender. The RB2x blocks have the same thing in the exact same place. It is a 1/8" BSPT (taper) thread in each case.

All the bolt holes in the block to the right of the oil filter (toward the front of the block) are for the engine mount + the inlet manifold support bracket.

Look for -Joel-'s Rb30 DIY guide. Its at the bottom of his sig. It give a rundown of everything u need. :(

The rb30 came out of a VL Commodore. The series 2 NA version is the one to go. It has the turbo and oil lines just bunged up with bolts. The rb25de head with non vvt came from the last models of the r32.

I bought the rb30 short motor for $110, and the r32de head + all intake side for $750 AU$

Another option, if you want the engine complete is to contact RIPS, they are from NZ and do fully built engines with RB26 head manifolds etc ready to drop in. And they will ship, he quoted me about $350NZdollars to ship to aust.

If you have a look on www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz on the forums under 'for sale business' , there is contact details etc.

one of the r31 guys has been running a 9.1 comp rb30 n/a for like a year. 21 psi, at apparently 0degrees timing under full boost.

its all about the tuning really, with 8.3 comp, personanlly id b worried about over-reving the rb30 (they dont rev like 20's and 25's) and upgrading/shot-penning the rods, balancing crank etc

Just wanted to clear something up.

A friend did some chamber measuring and came up with a figure of 8.06:1 using the twincam head on a RB30E block, not 8.3:1...

The piston measured to be 1cc dished, turbo pistons 11cc dished.

For the compression ratio i want, 9:1, i need a 10cc domed piston!

I guess we shouldn't take whats in a mag as gospel! But then there can be alot of variation that throw the figure off too...

Cheers, Phill.

You dont need to make up all your compression with your piston. I am running Arias RB30 Turbo pistons, with RB25 head and strengthend standard RB30 bottem end... BUT i am shaving the head and the block to acheive a higher compression ratio. Should be up around the 8.7:1 (According to Motor Improvments in St.kilda)

Ok Guys now its my turn. After getting my PFC and dyno at 213rwkw the engine only lasted 2 days before blowing lots of smoke. The engine has 186,000ks on it so I guess this is RB30DET time.

This is what ive done so far.

1: Parked car in garage stole miss's laser

2: ordered rings / bearings / geniune nissan head gasket

3: organised a shed to do conversion

4: organised RB30 bottom end from Commodore shop newcastle $100 (series 2)

5: wishing i knew what parts to order from what supplier. What exactly do you need for the VCT modification & the timing belt and idler pully.

I have read through and got a dayco part number however my car parts supplier called their dayco distributer and they know nothing of a 94470.

Can anyone help ?

Yes the engine must be blown. its using 2 litres of oil every 2 days.

thats not good.

I did the seal in turbo on sat and same problem.

So where do you get these fittings from ? and what fittings do you need exactly and what about my problem with the dayco timing belt? why dont they have that part number listed??

I was also told that the RB30e bottom ends dont have the turbo return line which is on the front side of the exaust manifold and that you also have to make up brakets for the power steering pump & air conditioning.

Is this true ??

i dont know Guilt-Toy, but i wish they would keep up the good work :D

this is a great thread guys, dont let it die now!

im very interested in this modification, and i think i will build up the engine while i save up for the car at the same time :rolleyes:

im in the process of working out EXACTLY what parts i need to swap into an r33 gtst. i plan on building it up then selling the engine in the car once its complete and tested ofcourse :D (although using the RB25DET as a parts bank seems good at the moment too :))

if someone doesnt mind helping me out when i get around to my list, i would much appreciate it. 29 pages to re-read to get it right :cool:

ok guys, heres my basic list. what am i missing, forgetting to include?

*********

going into r33 so gearbox stays stock

bottom end....

BLOCK: Series 2 NA VL cleaned/sanded, then dipped

PISTONS: NA VL

CONRODS: NA VL, sanded then Shotpeened

CRANK: RB30 crank, balanced

BEARINGS: Nizmo big end bearings : Nissan main bearings

OIL PUMP: RB25DET or RB26DETT with JUN adaptor : need to use RB20/25/26 oil dip stick //maybe scavange from current engine

WATER PUMP: RB30 water pump

FLYWHEEL: any RB wheel // scavange from current engine

CLUTCH: current engine item

top end....

TURBO: stock RB25GTS-T item, or whatever the car has on it

HEAD: RB25E head // something gives me the impression that going down the NA head route is much MUCH easier in the end.

PLENUM: RB25DET

FUEL RAIL: RB25DET

alternate top end....

TURBO: what car has

HEAD: what car has

PLENUM: what car has

FUEL RAIL: what car has

misc....

Cam Belt: Dayco 94470

RB30E thermostat

RB30E Head Gasket

RB25DET head studs //from engine

RB25DET gasket set

*******

No rush fellas, this will be a slow process and i want to get it right the first time :rolleyes:

EDIT: haha fellas, real funny. no really, can i have some help?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...