Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think the issue with clearance is where the strut brace is but towards the front of the motor where the bonnet slopes down.

Will be interesting to see how much clearance the Nismo strut brace has on a std rb20det.

Can I measure it Darren?

i can barely fit my finger inbetween the nizmo strut brace and top of the throttle body mount. so its going up 30ml.. its gona be higher then the strut brace??

I really want to keep the strut brace as it makes a huge difference for handling

Remember the drivers side of the motor can be quite snug as it isn't the torque side and won't lift. The torque side (passenger side) will obviously lift.

Replace the engine mounts or even get a set of more solid engine mounts (nismo) to prevent the motor from twisting on acceleration.

I think Nismo only make the torque side.

My old 250 cortina used to break engine mounts constantly, upon acceleration it would lift the back end of the bonnet.

Question for the ppl running the RB25DE/RB20DET inlet plenums on their RB30s, with your GT30/35 turbos (what 500-750hp depending on which individual) are you concerned about running those sorts of turbos chasing those sorts of outputs with the RB20 plenum/throttle body?

When I consulted Mark Tilbrook with regards to this matter he said the RB25DE inletmanifold and RB20/25 plenum will handle up to around 600hp with no problems. Over that and you will want to start looking at the plenum.

The inlet manifold for the RB25DE is fine. (i.e SK's Rb30 which runs a std inlet manifold with a subzero plenum)

The RB25DE inlet manifold does have larger ports than the RB20DE/T.

If we are talking about uneven air distrubution at these power levels... I have no idea.

When I consulted Mark Tilbrook with regards to this matter he said the RB25DE inletmanifold and RB20/25 plenum will handle up to around 600hp with no problems. Over that and you will want to start looking at the plenum.

 

The inlet manifold for the RB25DE is fine. (i.e SK's Rb30 which runs a std inlet manifold with a subzero plenum)

 

The RB25DE inlet manifold does have larger ports than the RB20DE/T.

 

If we are talking about uneven air distrubution at these power levels... I have no idea.

...mmm food for thought... the Sub Zero plenum with its big dirty aftermarket throttle body is a fair bit different to the RB25DE setup , or so i would have thought...will keep my options open and see what parts come across cheaply :rolleyes:

Careful Bl4cK32 , check that the Greddy plenums fit on the RB25DE head, as its my understanding they dont.

Someone hurry up and get their cars going...by the time i go solid lifters and buy a new plenum then an RB26 head makes fiscal sense, like that fiscal just watched Business Sunday!

hey guys, i will be using the greddy plenum on my rb30 with rb25det head. I will be using the stock rb25det throttle body as thats what i have at the moment. I also have a GT35 so i'll be able to tell you what thats like once it is up and running

My god this thread is huge now.

Well, I'm back on the road again and starting to regret selling the 30det I picked up... and this thread is too huge to do an indepth search right now, so a quick question... is the modification of the oil gallery for a 25det head to mate up with a 30 block that difficult?

It may be somewhat hard to find decent 25de heads and there seem to be more variety in go-fast bits for the det head.

Careful Bl4cK32 , check that the Greddy plenums fit on the RB25DE head, as its my understanding they dont.

 

I always have my back up plan....RIPS front facing plenum kit :O made with the rb25de runners i believe....ala sub zero...but a better design i believe due to the way it tapers to the back....like the greddy one :D
My god this thread is huge now.

Well, I'm back on the road again and starting to regret selling the 30det I picked up... and this thread is too huge to do an indepth search right now, so a quick question... is the modification of the oil gallery for a 25det head to mate up with a 30 block that difficult?  

It may be somewhat hard to find decent 25de heads and there seem to be more variety in go-fast bits for the det head.

Hi Sciby, I plumb the oil supply from the main oil gallery that runs down the LHS of the block, just drill a hole, tap it, whack a fitting in it and away you go.

But (there is always a BUT) I have yet to find one "go faster" bit for an RB25DET that doesn't fit an RB25DE. What did you have in mind that is unique to RB25DET's? :D

SK, you've changed your pictures! Oh well, at least Stageas are somewhat pretty.

The reason for the interest in the 25det head is that there's simply just more of them, theorhetically driving the cost down... or prepping and setting up the block and just swapping the head (albeit, with any changes needed).

Imho, I don't think there'd be a world of difference between the 25de and the det heads?

Sydneykid, the external line that you've outlined, that solves the different gallery mouth shapes? Would you do anything to allow for that? apart from cutting away at the gasket to fit both, I can't see a huge problem, but the reason I asked the forum is because I'm not a mechanic. :O

I may have $3k very shortly, to throw at the car, so I'm exploring the RB30 path again... :D

How much are people getting their RB25DE heads for?

I ended up with a DET head, simply because it was cheaper and easier to get access to.. $500 although it does need a couple of things which I will have to track down. There was another one forsale on here recently for similar pricing.

By the time I track everything down will be around $800 all up I think.

I have seen at times DET bottom ends (not blown) for under the $1k mark. It actually seems cheaper to buy the head and the bottom end separatelt, bolt them together and save the $3000 or even more it costs to get a RB25DET complete. Crazy..

predator: Yeah, some people do it in expensive strange ways.

If I decide to do the 3L thing again (just been looking at http://www.shemboy.com - it stills the hoon inside for a while)... I think I'll get a 3L block all set and prepped, then spend two weeks taking the head off, transferring all subsystem stuff to the 3L and getting the head ready... the only thing I'd be worried about sorting out myself is the path for the larger timing belt. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...