Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

i think most are hoping for a little more driveable (and reliable!) 300-400rwkw out of an rb30det as opposed to 300rwkw rb25det.. well me anyhow :cool: why i sold my r33 - too much effort & dosh over a $20k car to begin with and few things i wanted to change anyhow..erg.. thought it was easier to start again..

as to what times are possible, depends really on the rest of the setup i guess and whether you really want just a nutty drag car or good all rounder. I want the latter.

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

in reference back to SK i have done a little more research today and i actually think that eagle are starting with a subaru rod of some discription... i couldnt tell you what particular engine it is from but that is the word i have been given by a man that has delt with alot of subaru's and used eagles many times!!!!

Again back to engine outputs and so forth, it is never a good idea to say "oh i have seen or my friend or insert mechanic here has seen rb30's do 350rwkw on stock prepped rods, goin ask a few vl people how many they have seen let go as well.... looking at a stock rod compared to the eagle there is no way i would trust them past 80-90 hp each especially considering they are a stud and nut arrangement!!! Personally my biggest moto ever and i use it applied to everything " IF ITS WORTH DOING IT WORTH DOIN ONCE DONE RIGHT"... However im not saying the stockies wont do the job but for me i like the added insurance.... Cheers, Daniel.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

wouldnt 400rwhp be between 550 - 600hp @ flywheel? What i find hard to believe is that a standard rb30e bottom end with cast pistons with a proper tune can do that kind of power.

Anyway 400rwhp would be where I call it a day.... but then again.. i said that about 300rwhp lol this boost virus is very hard to shake

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
... goin ask a few vl people how many they have seen let go as well....

Thats my concern, you hear all the Nizpro guys producing great figures and doign great times, but are the engines hand grenades, are they durable etc. Ppl have a tendency to keep to themselves when they have a failure :Oops:

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

As for the Crower rods, do they make H-Beam rods...if im going to the expense of rods i would like H-beam rather then I beam rods...or is there no real difference?

From their website...

4340 Steel Billet Connecting Rods

Crower is the industry leader in high performance connecting rods. Choose from the largest selection of foreign makes available including BMW, Porsche, Ferrari, Nissan, Audi, Volkswagen and more. CNC machined from premium quality 4340 chromoly steel, Crower billet rods are the only choice when running nitrous oxide, high boost or high rpm in your vehicle. Contact Crower Tech for more information, including availability. 4340 steel billet rods run $167 per rod. Billet titanium rods run $459 per rod. Allow 12 weeks for delivery, 50% deposit required on all orders.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
in reference back to SK i have done a little more research today and i actually think that eagle are starting with a subaru rod of some discription... i couldnt tell you what particular engine it is from but that is the word i have been given by a man that has delt with alot of subaru's and used eagles many times!!!! Cheers, Daniel.

Hi Daniel, I am not a Subaru expert but the longest Subaru (EJ20 and EJ25) rod I have seen is just over 5", nowhere near the 6" rod needed in an RB30. :(

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
As for the Crower rods, do they make H-Beam rods...if im going to the expense of rods i would like H-beam rather then I beam rods...or is there no real difference?

You will get plenty of discussion over the "H" Beam versus "I" Beam rods on any V8 forum. There are pros and cons. I believe H beams are a bit more aerodynamic. For the same weight "I" beams are a little stronger in torsional bend, but "H" beams balance up more evenly. "I" beams will handle a bit of abuse, whereas just a little nick in a "H" beam will result in a stress fracture. etc etc My new RB31DET has "I" beams in it, they are rated at 200 bhp each. All my previous engines have had "H" beams and I have never had a problem.

Bottom line, I have no idea which is better :(

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

SK yeah i thought that as subaru rods are only 5.135" for ej20 and 5.162" for ej25...

but i really cant be sure as the part numbers corispond with so many other parts doesnt really matter to me as long as they fit...

checked some rough measurements today, they are actually 6"... they come with the bearings that look to be the standard chev ones machine to width by eagle geez they have done a nice job on them... also they are quiet a thicker bearing hence the crank grindind of 1.960 +- journal tolerences...

which gets me to my next question for a 700hp+ what crank journal clearances are you running... similar hp for a chev i know to run around 3-5thou but what about a nissan i really dont want to mess this up and stuff bearings constantly

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
lol, go work being decisive there, SK. ;)

I was just being honest, I really can't say for sure which is better. :D

SK yeah i thought that as subaru rods are only 5.135" for ej20 and 5.162" for ej25...

but i really cant be sure as the part numbers corispond with so many other parts doesnt really matter to me as long as they fit...  

checked some rough measurements today, they are actually 6"... they come with the bearings that look to be the standard chev ones machine to width by eagle geez they have done a nice job on them... also they are quiet a thicker bearing hence the crank grindind of 1.960 +- journal tolerences...  

which gets me to my next question for a 700hp+ what crank journal clearances are you running... similar hp for a chev i know to run around 3-5thou but what about a nissan i really dont want to mess this up and stuff bearings constantly

Let me start off with, I am not a fan of grinding RB cranks, as they are very well nitrided standard. If it needs more than a linish, I simply don't use it. There are different thicknesses of Chevy bearings, I would prefer to use a thinner bearing than grind the crank. Alternatively, open up the big end. We run minimum 2 thou clearance, but it depends on horsepower, oil pressure and the oil you are using. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...