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i think most are hoping for a little more driveable (and reliable!) 300-400rwkw out of an rb30det as opposed to 300rwkw rb25det.. well me anyhow :cool: why i sold my r33 - too much effort & dosh over a $20k car to begin with and few things i wanted to change anyhow..erg.. thought it was easier to start again..

as to what times are possible, depends really on the rest of the setup i guess and whether you really want just a nutty drag car or good all rounder. I want the latter.

in reference back to SK i have done a little more research today and i actually think that eagle are starting with a subaru rod of some discription... i couldnt tell you what particular engine it is from but that is the word i have been given by a man that has delt with alot of subaru's and used eagles many times!!!!

Again back to engine outputs and so forth, it is never a good idea to say "oh i have seen or my friend or insert mechanic here has seen rb30's do 350rwkw on stock prepped rods, goin ask a few vl people how many they have seen let go as well.... looking at a stock rod compared to the eagle there is no way i would trust them past 80-90 hp each especially considering they are a stud and nut arrangement!!! Personally my biggest moto ever and i use it applied to everything " IF ITS WORTH DOING IT WORTH DOIN ONCE DONE RIGHT"... However im not saying the stockies wont do the job but for me i like the added insurance.... Cheers, Daniel.

wouldnt 400rwhp be between 550 - 600hp @ flywheel? What i find hard to believe is that a standard rb30e bottom end with cast pistons with a proper tune can do that kind of power.

Anyway 400rwhp would be where I call it a day.... but then again.. i said that about 300rwhp lol this boost virus is very hard to shake

... goin ask a few vl people how many they have seen let go as well....

Thats my concern, you hear all the Nizpro guys producing great figures and doign great times, but are the engines hand grenades, are they durable etc. Ppl have a tendency to keep to themselves when they have a failure :Oops:

As for the Crower rods, do they make H-Beam rods...if im going to the expense of rods i would like H-beam rather then I beam rods...or is there no real difference?

From their website...

4340 Steel Billet Connecting Rods

Crower is the industry leader in high performance connecting rods. Choose from the largest selection of foreign makes available including BMW, Porsche, Ferrari, Nissan, Audi, Volkswagen and more. CNC machined from premium quality 4340 chromoly steel, Crower billet rods are the only choice when running nitrous oxide, high boost or high rpm in your vehicle. Contact Crower Tech for more information, including availability. 4340 steel billet rods run $167 per rod. Billet titanium rods run $459 per rod. Allow 12 weeks for delivery, 50% deposit required on all orders.

in reference back to SK i have done a little more research today and i actually think that eagle are starting with a subaru rod of some discription... i couldnt tell you what particular engine it is from but that is the word i have been given by a man that has delt with alot of subaru's and used eagles many times!!!! Cheers, Daniel.

Hi Daniel, I am not a Subaru expert but the longest Subaru (EJ20 and EJ25) rod I have seen is just over 5", nowhere near the 6" rod needed in an RB30. :(

As for the Crower rods, do they make H-Beam rods...if im going to the expense of rods i would like H-beam rather then I beam rods...or is there no real difference?

You will get plenty of discussion over the "H" Beam versus "I" Beam rods on any V8 forum. There are pros and cons. I believe H beams are a bit more aerodynamic. For the same weight "I" beams are a little stronger in torsional bend, but "H" beams balance up more evenly. "I" beams will handle a bit of abuse, whereas just a little nick in a "H" beam will result in a stress fracture. etc etc My new RB31DET has "I" beams in it, they are rated at 200 bhp each. All my previous engines have had "H" beams and I have never had a problem.

Bottom line, I have no idea which is better :(

SK yeah i thought that as subaru rods are only 5.135" for ej20 and 5.162" for ej25...

but i really cant be sure as the part numbers corispond with so many other parts doesnt really matter to me as long as they fit...

checked some rough measurements today, they are actually 6"... they come with the bearings that look to be the standard chev ones machine to width by eagle geez they have done a nice job on them... also they are quiet a thicker bearing hence the crank grindind of 1.960 +- journal tolerences...

which gets me to my next question for a 700hp+ what crank journal clearances are you running... similar hp for a chev i know to run around 3-5thou but what about a nissan i really dont want to mess this up and stuff bearings constantly

lol, go work being decisive there, SK. ;)

I was just being honest, I really can't say for sure which is better. :D

SK yeah i thought that as subaru rods are only 5.135" for ej20 and 5.162" for ej25...

but i really cant be sure as the part numbers corispond with so many other parts doesnt really matter to me as long as they fit...  

checked some rough measurements today, they are actually 6"... they come with the bearings that look to be the standard chev ones machine to width by eagle geez they have done a nice job on them... also they are quiet a thicker bearing hence the crank grindind of 1.960 +- journal tolerences...  

which gets me to my next question for a 700hp+ what crank journal clearances are you running... similar hp for a chev i know to run around 3-5thou but what about a nissan i really dont want to mess this up and stuff bearings constantly

Let me start off with, I am not a fan of grinding RB cranks, as they are very well nitrided standard. If it needs more than a linish, I simply don't use it. There are different thicknesses of Chevy bearings, I would prefer to use a thinner bearing than grind the crank. Alternatively, open up the big end. We run minimum 2 thou clearance, but it depends on horsepower, oil pressure and the oil you are using. ;)

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