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just to add, im now at 204rwkw and it lose traction coming onto boost in 1st, shift into second real quick and it will "chirp" lol

im pretty sure it just was a bit of lackng power and possibly the combination of new tyres and a car that seems to be in good nick suspension wise and also my boost controller (turbotech) didnt have the hole like the newly designed ones so when i fixed that up boost kicks in instantly on a high rev gear change unlike before it had a second of lag when changing from first to second even if i shifted at redline and 2nd was at over 4000rpm

now to test that clutch again... seems to not be holding out on high rev clutch dumps like on takeoffs at the drags

mine spins 1 2 3 without dumping the clutch. bring it on boost in 1st change semi fast, not snapping it or whatever and second spins all the way through then into 3rd i usually back off coz ur doin bout 100 ks all over the road. hopefully new tyres can sort it out. there bout 40 percent 235-17s. its only a stocker with cat back 3 inch. runs around 10psi

rev 1st to 7,000rpm then while ur foot is to the floor flatshift into 2nd and hold on :) seems to work for me...

on the track i got mad traction on the street im sideways in 3rd if i race from the lights...

now that my engine is about to blow up its kinda slow :D u rekon more boost?

mine does have vlsd, when im practiceing launching or really trying to down a quarter I dont tend to slip as im specifically trying not to but chirping second isnt that hard just change gear @ 6krpm and maintain throttle position reffered to as flat changing ^^

anyone find that thier vlsd tends to open wheel when "cold" a little but when warm locks pretty well ? after a bit of driving for some reason it seems to lock but if you warm the engy then go to warm the tyres start driving and say leaving by going down the drive and the inevitable stradle due to crapy driveway angle and 1 wheel chirps but when you say are coming home it just locks up ?

Reading most of these, I'd have to say something along the lines of the clutch. I only have 153 at the wheels in an RB20 which has less Torque than an RB25 and I'm able to break traction accelerating in 1st, and chirp both in 2nd and onto 3rd. Like some have mentioned, the way you change gears is also a main thing. I have a heavy duty clutch with a short shifter. Tyres on the back are 245 (big for a R32 gts-t)... so someonething seems a little weird. Maybe remap ECU? Also depends... what turbo you have?

Edited by DC_GTST

i agree with cubes, its all about driving style, and tyres... horse power just means wheel spin rather then chirp... i had a set of shity tyres wen i first got my turbo upgrade, and with 260rwkw i was spinning 1st 2nd and thirds quite easily... now with some continentals i cant make it spin much in second, they grip like u wudnt believe!!! as for breaking out into some spin from revving out, that doesnt happen either, no spin without dumping or flat changing gears...

mine does have vlsd, when im practiceing launching or really trying to down a quarter I dont tend to slip as im specifically trying not to but chirping second isnt that hard just change gear @ 6krpm and maintain throttle position reffered to as flat changing ^^

anyone find that thier vlsd tends to open wheel when "cold" a little but when warm locks pretty well ? after a bit of driving for some reason it seems to lock but if you warm the engy then go to warm the tyres start driving and say leaving by going down the drive and the inevitable stradle due to crapy driveway angle and 1 wheel chirps but when you say are coming home it just locks up ?

Yes.. My VLSD was stuffed. When cold it would open wheel the left wheel in a roll on acceleration in second gear. First gear would also spin up the left wheel.

It was spinning the left wheel so much that there was very much noticable greater wear on the left rear tyre.

Once warm second would hook up ok and not spin up through second but first would still just buzz the left wheel up.

This only started occuring since the rb30det was dropped in. With the rb20det the diff was fine, it would only open wheel when turning left on a wet road. I'm assuming the worn vlsd hub simply couldn't handle the increased torque that comes on quite hard.

Talking about tyres, I have 4 different ones, all down to about 0% on the inside and outside and about 20% in the middle.

I've only got 150rwkw and it spins up first with 235s, hell it spun first when it only had 130. Tyres are what its all about, can't wait to get new rims and tyres, should be a new car.

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