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hey all,

i followed the diagram on the closed thread about modding the stock R33 bov to make it flutter.

and it sounds nuts but i am having problems with my car stalling.

it only happens if i bring the revs up and drop them fast. it ALWAYS stalls without fail.

e.g. im in first/second gear and i take the revs to 3-4 then push the clutch in. the revs drop to below 1 and it STALLs.

its fine if i rev them to 3-4 push clutch in, change gear and let out the clutch.

i thought perphaps adjusting my idle would stop it?

please help me because i cant leave this flutter on if my car is gonna keep stalling.

cheers all

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its stalling cos you are dumping measured air to the atmosphere

the ecu doesnt know so its extra rich, cos its missing air

put the bov how nissan intended it

or get a bov stall hack device

please help me because i cant leave this flutter on if my car is gonna keep stalling.

You want a bit of wank factor, you get stall.

Thats just how life is.

Otherwise fork out for an aftermarket ECU and have it tuned out.

its stalling cos you are dumping measured air to the atmosphere

the ecu doesnt know so its extra rich, cos its missing air

paul you really are a dick. learn to read.

Rochey: did you squash the top of the bov, or plug up the recirulation hose? either way you have stopped air from going the way it is supposed to so it is going back out the intake and being read twice, so the car is running rich.

you have 2 options. 1 will defiantely work, the other may not.

1) return the setup back to standard.

2) put a new set of spark plugs in. i know people with aftermarket atmo bovs that have no issues with stalling. they put the bov on, it made it stall a bit, they put new plugs in and it went away. i even had the stalling issue on my stock bov when my plugs were shagged.

paul you really are a dick. learn to read.

Rochey: did you squash the top of the bov, or plug up the recirulation hose? either way you have stopped air from going the way it is supposed to so it is going back out the intake and being read twice, so the car is running rich.

you have 2 options. 1 will defiantely work, the other may not.

1) return the setup back to standard.

2) put a new set of spark plugs in. i know people with aftermarket atmo bovs that have no issues with stalling. they put the bov on, it made it stall a bit, they put new plugs in and it went away. i even had the stalling issue on my stock bov when my plugs were shagged.

Plugs stop stalling from a blanked off BOV?

:D

He followed the guide on how to make the stock BOV hold more pressure.

He isn't dumping air into the atmosphere at all.

Quite the opposite, he's letting NONE out!

Have a read. :D

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1457/article.html

paul you really are a dick. learn to read.

Rochey: did you squash the top of the bov, or plug up the recirulation hose? either way you have stopped air from going the way it is supposed to so it is going back out the intake and being read twice, so the car is running rich.

you have 2 options. 1 will defiantely work, the other may not.

1) return the setup back to standard.

2) put a new set of spark plugs in. i know people with aftermarket atmo bovs that have no issues with stalling. they put the bov on, it made it stall a bit, they put new plugs in and it went away. i even had the stalling issue on my stock bov when my plugs were shagged.

all i did was put a piece of tin between the stock bov and the manifold its connected too. i left the lil hose on the bov connected as i didnt see the point of disconnecting it and plugging it up if leaving it connectied to the bov would do the same thing.

so changing my spark plugs would do it ya recon?

Otherwise fork out for an aftermarket ECU and have it tuned out.

So an aftermarket ecu would prevent it from stalling even tho he would still have the afm there?

Or would it completely stop it from stalling if he had an ecu without a map sensor? but then he'd be screwed with cold start... you cant win just leave it plumb back

EDIT : Or buy a safc2 and get that tuned...

i (and a few mates) had the stalling issue that everyone attributes to atmo bovs, except for the fact i have a 100% stock bov.

the reason that a new set of plugs may fix it is that if the old plugs are getting old they will be foulded and the gap may be bigger than needed. so by putting in a new set of plugs you get a stronger spark which will burn up the extra fuel.

new plugs have solved the stalling issue on a few different turbo cars i know, all but 2 with atmo bovs.

i (and a few mates) had the stalling issue that everyone attributes to atmo bovs, except for the fact i have a 100% stock bov.

the reason that a new set of plugs may fix it is that if the old plugs are getting old they will be foulded and the gap may be bigger than needed. so by putting in a new set of plugs you get a stronger spark which will burn up the extra fuel.

new plugs have solved the stalling issue on a few different turbo cars i know, all but 2 with atmo bovs.

Thats just a band aid fix (if it does work which i've never heard of)... to fix it properly you need a form of engine management like R31Nismoid said... safc2 is designed to help with this EXACT issue.. and your car will run better aswell...

EDIT : Please show proof of this band aid fix and how logically a spark plug can compensate for the amount of extra fuel thrown in to make it stall... i understand it for missfire but not for full on stalling.

So an aftermarket ecu would prevent it from stalling even tho he would still have the afm there?

Or would it completely stop it from stalling if he had an ecu without a map sensor? but then he'd be screwed with cold start... you cant win just leave it plumb back

EDIT : Or buy a safc2 and get that tuned...

Sorry, a bit OT, but how does a map sensor stuff cold start(id really hate to own a $40,000 supra with cold start issues)

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