Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sup

forgive the stupid question/noobness. but do rwc joints usually pick on such things?

i went today to about 7 places and they all gave me the same farkin answer "come by tomorrow or wednesday"

anyway, at one place the guy just took a very quick look at the car and spotted these 3 unroadworthy things.

going tomorrow to a...umm...a..."special" rwc place :P:) and get this over with but just curious...

bit tight don't you think?

dirty headlight

dscf2119tn6.jpg

don't know if you can see it but the very thin line under the p-plate. bottom left corner of the p-plate (dirt)

dscf2120zk5.jpg

dirt blinker

dscf2122uw9.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155989-do-these-look-un-roadworthy-to-you/
Share on other sites

as long as they work i dont see anything wrong.. If a windscreen is chipped or cracked its un roadworthy or moisture in headlights/tail lights

they all work. the line on the windscreen is just dirt that doesn't wanna come off too easily. whatever that is on the headlight, it's inside but it's just as good as the other one when light is actually turned on...

Those headlights are pretty bad and I have seen various EL Falcons, etc, fail roadworthy in similar or worse condition. As previously posted, try to use cutters and buff the headlights, but remove them off the car first and take care not to burn the plastic.

Windscreen can simply be polished off, by a professional glass polisher.

Tail light is tricky as you have a moisture issue, thus have a build up of dirt/grime inside the light assembly.

Think yourself lucky. Many years ago, to get a roadworthy, you HAD TO replace the windscreen. Without any form of measuring equipment, they always deemed that a (used) windscreen did not meet the standard for light transmission.

yeah i guess it's not all too bad but remember this was just a very quick look it wasn't an actual inspection.

i went this morning to a different place, didn't notice these little things but came up with this list:

l/h outer e/v boot split

r/h outer e/v boot split

radius arm bushes

he said it would cost $275 to replace these with new ones. does this sound right? already wasted $100 on the inspection.

still cheaper if i was to get a "special" rwc :kiss:

Edited by R-SPEC

what the hell is an EV boot.. a CV boot?

try ringing Chris @ Centreline for a 2nd quote 94692914. They're just off Mahoneys Rd and won't rip you off.

PS $100 is a ripoff.. I hope that was for 2 x $50 inspections at different places. Don't forget that if you take it back to the same place within the 30days you do not have to pay another inspection/RW fee.

how does that work? did they have to fix something or put in whiteline bushes? I think from memory their alignments are $90 for 4 wheel.

Edit: There you go, Michael said a camber kit is about $300 or thereabouts with an alignment.

Also it was probably a Whiteline kit, and Centreline usually charge less than if you buy direct from Whiteline.

You can have a look at one of Sydneykids threads to compare prices for the kits.

well being that I wasn't there and don't know the full circumstances of the problem, I can only suggest you look at the receipt and give Chris a call if you don't understand what was done to the car and what you were paying for. Chris has always justified what he has done or what needs to be done to our cars and the price/quote even without being asked and to the point of him giving me back the broken parts without asking for them.

To me it sounds like something else was obviously fixed/replaced and Justin isn't clear on what he was paying for.

hehe

nah dezz was with me at the time cause he got some work done on his car earlier that day.

aparantly... the camber on both wheels on the passenger side magicaly changed cause i had a big side on accident.. evan though theres no damage on my car... or on the wheels.. anyways

he goes "its going to take 2-3 hours to fix and cost a few $100"

and 30 minutes later the camber had the correct settings again.. and i was down $300

he evan said to dezz "your friend must of had a big accident"..

my theory is... 2 ppl installed all the suspension stuff originaly.. 1 on each side...

the guy who did it on the passenger side didnt do the camber properly or something...

what the hell is an EV boot.. a CV boot?

try ringing Chris @ Centreline for a 2nd quote 94692914. They're just off Mahoneys Rd and won't rip you off.

PS $100 is a ripoff.. I hope that was for 2 x $50 inspections at different places. Don't forget that if you take it back to the same place within the 30days you do not have to pay another inspection/RW fee.

yeah i guess it's not all too bad but remember this was just a very quick look it wasn't an actual inspection.

i went this morning to a different place, didn't notice these little things but came up with this list:

l/h outer e/v boot split

r/h outer e/v boot split

radius arm bushes

he said it would cost $275 to replace these with new ones. does this sound right? already wasted $100 on the inspection.

still cheaper if i was to get a "special" rwc :ninja:

:rofl:

well being that I wasn't there and don't know the full circumstances of the problem, I can only suggest you look at the receipt and give Chris a call if you don't understand what was done to the car and what you were paying for. Chris has always justified what he has done or what needs to be done to our cars and the price/quote even without being asked and to the point of him giving me back the broken parts without asking for them.

To me it sounds like something else was obviously fixed/replaced and Justin isn't clear on what he was paying for.

Agreed.......

Sorry Justin, i still find your story hard to beleive. I've been to Centreline, many times for different things, Chris is currently sorting out a set of coil-overs for my car, and i have had nothing but top class work at good prices.

It's strange how almost every person that works on your car f**ks it up or rips you off :) ; even though many others have never had issues using the same business.

If you still have concerns/issues, (and you obiously do) why not approach Chris and ask for clarification on what was done in those 30mins :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...