Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did tell u something constructive...you really won't be able to get much out of the mines ecu if you can't tune it to suit your car...how about you ask proper questions before you have a go at me?

Good size for what? 300hp? 500hp?

What do you already have? and what do u mean by parts needed? parts for the swap alone? or parts to support the new turbo? and then...it also depends on what turbo you want to get...which will determine what parts you need...thats why i said search first...how do you expect people to help if you aren't clear?!

Edited by limpus

Ok...in terms of support mods you seem to be on the right path...you will need some sort of programmable engine management...as for the turbo to get...look at the rb20 turbo upgrade thread...you will be able to see how others are doing and follow the same path...

To4e is way too big for any practicality in an rb20...rb25 hiflow is my choice hands down because it involves not much modification to fit, not ridiculously laggy, it and its good for at least 200rwkw with supporting mods.

If you dont have a full exhuast system get one of those first.

Raz

An apexi avcr is NOT engine management...its a boost controller...and as i mentioned...jap tuned ecus are usually useless here in australia because they are tuned for very rich air fuel ratios and higher octane fuel...if they can be retuned then it might work...but in the end it'll just be like a remapped ecu...in the end...you have 3 simple options for engine management...piggyback(safc, emanage and the like)...remap(dr drift remap) or stand alone(power fc or similar)...i'm guessing your car has a mines tuned rom in it since you're so keen on finding out about it...speak to your local tuners to see if it can be retuned...if not bin the thing...

i have searched mate. i need answers. So if you have nothing constructive to say then piss off!!

that post was probably the most informative and truthful post in this thread. And with a reply like this one quoted, I hope you get flamed to ashes.

A mines ECU IS USELESS unless you have someone to tune it. If you leave it how it is it will be exactly as it states - a mine. Your engine will go kaboom.

and AVCR is not engine management, its a boost controller.

i have searched mate. i need answers. So if you have nothing constructive to say then piss off!!

How hard?

There is some quite useful info here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095

Which is at the top of the PI page.

Otherwise search using keywords like Slide, GCG*, 2530*, 2871*, Discopotato, MTQ*, highflow, etc.

Make some effort to search and see/read what others have achieved/done, before telling someone where to get off.

The whole thing isn't about instant gratification. If you want to modify then you need to know exactly what you want out of your car, and what use you want to put it to. That will ultimately dictate what works best for you. :)

And here's a thread that was active in only the past few days about remapping:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143835

If you want to know about stand alone replacement ECU, then try searching PFC*, Apexi, Microtech, Datalogit.

Again, it's only down to your budget and intended outcome. You could try Googling Adaptronic too.

None of this is hard, just a bit time consuming to build your own understanding.

Edited by Dale FZ1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...