Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was coming back from the gym at monash yesterday, and I decided to rev it to 100km/h on the fwy ramp. But it seemed like the clutch was slipping or something. Here is what happened...the revs were climbing, the speed was not climbing...and the car was getting twitchy. Mine has only got 164rwkws, with a turbo back exhaust and pod. Surely this is not powerful enough to give wheel spin on a straight line and on a dry road (cos its never happened before). Is my clutch on the way out? Or is it just that my tyres are not tready enough?

Mind you, after that I drove carefully.

Also - is it normal for black smoke to come out when revving? Apparently there was some smoke that came out when i hit the fwy ramp (my friend was travelling behind me).

Thanks all

Ps: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...clutch+slipping

i think its similar to what this guy experienced...so im tending to believe that it could be my clutch..but id like any opinions.

And if so, what model of the exedy clutch would be good (bear in mind, im thinking of doing mods later this year).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/
Share on other sites

yeah sounds like shes shagged. go for the exedy hd cushion 8 button clutch there really good. i got one and its not to heavy not to light an the missus can still drive it. apparently they can handle up to 300rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-2912773
Share on other sites

let me know how long the button clutches last with everday driving. they grip very well but I found that it wore my flywheel out as well as the disc but mostly the flywheel. I all for brass/ceramic friction materials but not for everyday driving. I'll stick to HD organic or twin plate, but thats only my opinion they get better everyday with there designs.

a good way to tell if your clutch is slipping is to get on the high/freeway at about 100ks in 4th or 5th, moderately warm and keep the throttle flat so the cars under full load then fan/feather/kick the clutch ( quickly tap it down past friction point then release) and if your revs go up( they will a little but only due to the clutch being pushed in) and with the clutch pedal all the way out continue to rise then yeah its on the way out, or take it to a workshop but it sucks to not know exactly what people mean, its good to experience it for yourself so that your learn.

Edited by mattymagoo22
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-2914278
Share on other sites

crazy..thanks for the replies :)

i will check some more...i still got till june before i get my next service...so i will test it till then. but yeah, that day it was just acting wierd - either there was no traction or its likely that the clutch is flocked

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-2914347
Share on other sites

hey there,

after a drive do you smell anything burning? if you do, it could be clutch burn.

a few months ago my clutch started to slip in 4th, but the longer it went on, it started to slip in 3rd...2nd then finally it was starting to slip in 1st. once its gets to 1st gear, the clutch is on its last legs.

i think if you can? take ur car to the clutch specialists in your state, and ask them to check your clutch for u. it really shouldnt cost you anything. got my clutch changed with a xtreme heavy duty cushion button. they are 25% heavier than stock. they are grippy and require an "on or off" engagement. not too bad for street driven cars.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-2914433
Share on other sites

Clutch slip is fairly easy to diagnose against wheelspin, with clutch slip the car will go practically nowhere (you won't feel any acceleration), whereas wheelspin you'll still be generally accelerating.

A lot of black smoke out the back will be clutch dust. You can usually smell it too if you did a good job. Time for a new clutch if it keeps happening. They usually get worse with time, so see how you go, and if it gets worse then its time for a better clutch.

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-2914475
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

I replaced my clutch with a heavy duty button clutch. NOT fun to drive everyday and it lasted at least 40k but same problem is happening to me right now. So I'll have to take mine in and I'm planning on getting a standard clutch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-5880059
Share on other sites

Same as everyone else my clutch slipped in 2nd whilst trying to overtake a truck. Scared the pants off me. Burnt clutch smell took a week to go away after I had an exedy HD clutch put in. I regret going HD... daily driving it was too heavy in stop start traffic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-5880287
Share on other sites

easy.... put it in 5th at about 50kmh, put your foot down and you'll soon see if its slipping.

yep does it in 3rd... :(

Same as everyone else my clutch slipped in 2nd whilst trying to overtake a truck. Scared the pants off me. Burnt clutch smell took a week to go away after I had an exedy HD clutch put in. I regret going HD... daily driving it was too heavy in stop start traffic.

SAME!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156719-clutch-slipping/#findComment-5881093
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...