Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay looking to buy both a carbon bonnet and bootlid for my 89 r32 GTR only place I have managed to find both has (to say the least) a questionable name according to most on this forum as far as there body kits go, havn't heard much bad about there carbon products though. Just wondering if anyone can tell me who made the original of this style of bonnet. If anyone wants to comment on this companys carbon products I would be keen to hear to or if any can suggest a better place to get them from am in darwin so hard to see products for myself before buying

post-33041-1171993875.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157320-r32-gtr-carbon-bonnet-and-bootlid/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im also looking for this style bonnet i checked out carmate and there products dont seem too crash hot and on top of that shit customer service they make u feel like they dont wanna sell u anythin.. maybe because im lebo?? lol

Edited by --{TRYDIS}--

that bonnet would have to be the ugliest desgin aero bonnet ever made. I mean why the farg does it have 4 bloody scoops, half of which do nothing? argh. your alloy bonnet is probably lighter.

I dunno bout the ugliest design ever thats maybe a bit harsh.lol

Yeh the vents/scoops at the back are crappy, the little one at the front would be good with an ARC airbox to feed cold air to the box.

Was considering this or a z-tune looking one thy do, both are available without the extra (little) scoops and may go that way not sure about the posibility of water hitting top of airbox (arc)

U had one didnt u Beer Baron arc box I mean?

--{TRYDIS}-- thanks for the warning.

Custom carbon will be getting a call email soon wanted to check other options before full custom job.

Edited by noone

i must get signed up as a trader...

well i represent Custom Carbon Pty Ltd here on SAU so any questions can come to me..

with carbon fibre products you need only think about 2 things

1- 100% carbon fibre OR

2- 1 layer of carbon with fibreglass reinforcement frames etc..

in the end it comes down to cost/budget for most..

for the original question noone- there are plenty of shops that supply #2 and most are quite competitivly priced. In the end you get what you pay for.

Noy sent u guys an email tonight bfore I saw your post hope to hear from u soon not in QLD though which might make things a little awkward? Do u guys have molds etc. or take measurements of the car in question and go from there.

and Baron u obviously didnt like the style i posted much so what would your pic b for a 32

Edited by noone

I'll dig out a pic for you of a nice 32 GTR bonnet. I think one with a large, simple negative pressure vent in the middle to extract hot air from behind the radiator will be the go.

The shift sports one with a single vent is nice. I have a pic somewhere, will try to find it. It's similar to this one (below).

Just remember a 32 GTR standard bonnet is already quite light, so there wont be a massive saving unless you go to like a full dry carbon pice ($$$$$$$), one with a fibreglass frame, and one layer of CF on top may even end up heavier than stock.

post-3621-1172060505.jpg

Ronin have to admit the Z-tune style was looking good to me as well.

Beer Baron know exactly what u mean bout prices electra cps website scared the crap outa me. Looks A1 quality though.

The one you have pictured looks a little like the one custom carbon have on there webpage and is nice. Live in darwin so removing underbonnet heat is important and have a lovely dent on my stock bonnet from a rock falling of a passing roadtrain so decision was made for me.

Original choice had alot to do with thoughts of trying to feed air to the ARC airbox I have on order

Edited by noone

I wouldn't worry about trying to get an air feed for the arc box from the bonnet. you can direct air to it from the passenger side duct. the way the airflows over the car I'm not sure how much air the box would receive from one of those little vents on the side.

ok, this is pretty much the only style of bonnet I'd put on a 32 GTR (other than stock!).

http://img35.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/2/...695dscf0029.jpg

http://img35.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/2/...721dscf0026.jpg

this one is ok too, but I think the duct is going the wrong way?

http://img189.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1...cimg3726[1].jpg

ahh, here is the shift sports bonnet. top quality, and look nice.

http://bag08pr000.auc.bbt.yahoo.co.jp/user...06060900007.jpg

Varis bonnet is also top class and they will make one in kevlar for you too if you wish.

http://www.varis.co.jp/japanese/bonnet/coo...ssan/bnr32.html

Why not get your stock alloy hood modded by an aluminium panel crash repairer that could work it to have whatever design you want?

True it could be expensive, but would be unique one off and light.

My CF is two piece and plastic underneath - Heavier than stock and cost $900.

Though it does cool well and cut underhood temps in half.

mmm nice ronin. me likey. 3kg weight is nuts. dry carbon is the way to go. much stronger and lighter than the normal carbon parts, but costs around triple the price :(

Noy sent u guys an email tonight bfore I saw your post hope to hear from u soon not in QLD though which might make things a little awkward? Do u guys have molds etc. or take measurements of the car in question and go from there.

and Baron u obviously didnt like the style i posted much so what would your pic b for a 32

Yeah mate we have moulds for 32 gtr we have OEM and vented.. vented one looks like this.

camerapics018mm2.jpg

camerapics013xb6.jpg

personally i'm not a fan of it, because i take pride in doing vents manually as i did with my own.

that blue 32 GTR bonnet is alright too

95qw9.jpg

243xg5.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...