Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing and Tuning


sfitzy
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am having abit of trouble hooking up a timing light to my Skyline GTS25T.

It has an inductive pick-up and I want to adjust the crank angle sensor to get the timing right.

Where do I connect the pick-up too? Is this the right method for adjusting the timing? Any help would be great!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hook onto the wire that is looped out from the rest on the igniter module.

some timing guns read different depending on which direction the pickup is facing (the most retarded reading is the correct one)

dont overtighten the 3 bolts on the CAS, the housing can crack pretty easily

hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's no guarantee that that method works.

The better method is to remove #1 coilpack, and insert a plug lead between the coilpack and the spark plug. Then do a 'normal / old-fashioned' reading of the timing and adjust the CAS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I said, there's no guarantee that the 'easy' way will work. If the timing isn't somewhere already near the factory value (15 BTDC), then don't use the 'easy' way. I got it reading almost twice the 'real' value using my mighty K-Mart timing light and the wire loop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by blind_elk

As I said, there's no guarantee that the 'easy' way will work. If the timing isn't somewhere already near the factory value (15 BTDC), then don't use the 'easy' way. I got it reading almost twice the 'real' value using my mighty K-Mart timing light and the wire loop.

i use an elcheapo $15 kmart gun also... it reads fine. everytime.

like i said, reverse the direction of the pickup on the loop (coil #1) and with most guns this will read 2 different values. the most retarded reading is the correct one.

works on other 33s as well so i dont think there's any magic here :(

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be careful some timing lights will give you a timing reading on the "easy method" but will be wrong..so that isnt much good.

Timing lights are designed to work on a high voltage current pulse not a LV pulse...so sometimes innacurate readings can occur.

I hate timing cars with coil packs, by rule unless there is a fault i time with my ear :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
×
×
  • Create New...