Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have a Hks cast low mount manifold I want to know what wastegate you are using and how did you mount it?

I was thinking of going with the Hks std 40mm, but they want +$700 for a new one [and $400 for a questionable quality s/h one] and a tial/turbosmart costs $400.

But other wastegates don't mount up like the Hks one would. I was thinking of chopping up a bit of 10-13mm plate for the manifold and then centreing a 40mm hole and tapping thread into mounting holes either side, but I'm not sure of airflow to and through the wastegate. It would be cheaper [bit of frigging around for me, but I work cheap on my car], but it could impact on performance?

Has anyone else done anything similar?

Another solution is the plethoria of chinese? copies of the hks unit that are on ebay and/or Just Jap/option1garage/driftbits etc etc - I think I will stay away - but has anybody had any experience with them? Usually dubbed the Hks style!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157742-hks-low-mount-cast-manifold/
Share on other sites

Have used the hks ebay cheapiec without any drama for over a year on a mates car, ive got an hks on on my cast lowmount gtr manifold, and the wastegate is the same as the cheapies, but there is a cast "adapter" piece between the two.This piece mounts the gate on an angle. Should be able to make one with two flanges and a bit of steam pipe bend.

Adriano, why does it have to be at an angle, is this to clear the twin turbo set up of a GTR?

I thought [probably wrongly] that with the adaptor plate supplied with the Hks/JJR type unit that it would bolt straight on [for a single turbo gtst]. Interesting. I will have scour the web for some pics of the adaptor etc.

Anyone using something other than a Hks or Hks style?

The RB20/25 style ones bolt straight up to the manifold with the 5mm spacer/piston seat in between.

I'll get a pic for you later on of mine when i get home from work.

post-2863-1172277731.jpgpost-2863-1172277774.jpg

Sorry, the heat shield makes it a bit difficult to make out.

As you can see though, there's a heap of space if you do decide to make an adapter to fit another type of gate.

If you raise it though it would be worth angling the gate towards the back of the car to make it easier to get a pipe off it

Edited by BHDave

Thanks BHDave, you know, I've cruised the net ad nausem looking for a Hks std 40mm unit, but they are hard to come by and when you do, very expensive [compared to other makes]. They have the reputation of being an excellent product, but so do Tial and Turbosmart etc. So I'm just assessing my options and checking how far my project $$$ will stretch.

Thanks for the pics as well, very helpful.

Thanks Dave , any pics welcome . Is that heat shield material easy to get and effective ?

Cheers Adrian .

I picked it up at supercheap one day when i was wandering around the isles trying to remember what i went there to get.

It's acl race, GTRxxx part number. It's actually in a head gasket packet. It seems to do the job, It's noticably cooler under the bonnet when lifting the hood after a drive. The exhaust pipes were wrapped at the same time though.

And none of the rubber hoses have melted yet :(

Im going a Tial 38mm Gate.

I figure make up a flange for the HKS side of things then roughly a 2" dia pipe to a flange for the tial gate should do the trick, it will still be mega close to the collector compared to other manifolds and then I can mount the wastegate where I want cous I can bend up the pipe however I want it. I will probably use stainless also as my exhaust will be stainless also, so why not keep the theme.

-Jez

Hey mate i mounted up a 44mm Tial gate pretty easy hour or so on the tig made up a flange with a short bit of pipe to the v band clamp just gotta be careful of the height cos theres not much room in there, also got one of those hks gates in the back room only problem is the diaphram is shagged if ya can source a new diaphram ill let it go fairly cheap its got a dump pipe and all the flanges

Cheers Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...