Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine's sitting at around 14.7L at the moment. R34 Gtt Tiptronic.

You guys think I should replace the O2 sensor on it? This is the sensor on the dump/split pipe I take it? Do I have to get another R34 GTT O2 Sensor or can you get a universal replacement item somewhere?

Those of you with auto's.

Do remember auto's suck a fair bit more juice.

The only auto i've owned was a VL commodore back when they were about 10yrs old. I promptly dropped a manual in to it and instantly picked up ~80km's extra per tank or what worked out close to 2litres less per 100km's.

I own a stagea, 1658kg's so a tad heavier than skylines.

Its got 160kw at all 4 wheels and I average ~12.5L/100km city driving. Up to 13.5L/100km when using aircon all the time.

Recently got 9L/100km on open country roads - cold morning, no aircon (and with the car fully loaded up too).

Pretty happy with that. :spank:

almost as economical as a falcodore wagon and yet waaay quicker! :ninja:

I own a stagea, 1658kg's so a tad heavier than skylines.

Its got 160kw at all 4 wheels and I average ~12.5L/100km city driving. Up to 13.5L/100km when using aircon all the time.

Recently got 9L/100km on open country roads - cold morning, no aircon (and with the car fully loaded up too).

Pretty happy with that. :wave:

almost as economical as a falcodore wagon and yet waaay quicker! :wave:

I always heard stagea drinks a bit due to the weight & auto, but apparently i am wrong as your fuel consumption is great!

is it cause your's a s2 and been tuned tho?

If you want fuel ecconomy buy a bike, if you want a performance car dont worry about fuel ecconomy. The more power you make the more fuel you need.

I have never worked my ecconomy out, but I know its not that good (but I dont care). Just because a Skyline offers great performance at a budget price (we they do now, but not so much when I bought mine) will not make them an ecconomical car. If you can't afford the fuel (and tyres and maintenance) to drive it, dont buy any performance vehicle.

/end Rant LOL

I tend to think along a different line to that..... Yeah I wasn't too concerned about fuel economy when I bought my 33, but why pay for fuel that isn't gaining you any performance & possibly even making the car slower?

There is such a thing as too much fuel & I'm happy to have extra money left in my wallet at the end of each week while getting slightly better performance to what I used to.

How about I change your O2 sensor for you for free & you pay me the amount you save on petrol each week ;).

Mine's sitting at around 14.7L at the moment. R34 Gtt Tiptronic.

You guys think I should replace the O2 sensor on it? This is the sensor on the dump/split pipe I take it? Do I have to get another R34 GTT O2 Sensor or can you get a universal replacement item somewhere?

When was it last done? If you don't know & you consider your economy a bit poor, do it. It's the only way to be sure it's working ok. It's not worth going somewhere to get it check out, it'll probably cost you as much as just changing it in the first place.

& yeah it's the sensor that's mounted in the dump pipe (or exhaust mainfold for NA), but get the one designed for your car. Modifying other O2 sensors to connect to your loom is something that has to be done very well for it to work right & requires special crimps & insulation.

I always heard stagea drinks a bit due to the weight & auto, but apparently i am wrong as your fuel consumption is great!

is it cause your's a s2 and been tuned tho?

Weight & gearbox are always going to affect economy, but this just shows how small a difference it can be if things are maintained well.

well small update fuel gauge on last line getting worried fill up tomorrow though

done about 425km's no sign yet of fuel light either i read in my manual there is 6lts in the tank when the light goes on and i guesstimate 50km to 6Lt's

Calculated Results

Distance Traveled Since Last Fill Is 434 Kilometers (km)

Your Fuel Consumption Usage Is 7.75 Kilometers Per Liter or Gallon (km/L or km/G)

Your Fuel Consumption Usage Is 12.9 Liters or Gallons per 100 Kilometers (L/100km or G/100km)

Your Fuel Direct Expense Is 15.68 Euros Per Kilometer or Dollars Per Kilometer

Your Fuel Fill Expense Is About ,804.00 Euros This Fill or Dollars This Fill

i also had 10 lts left in the tank that was based on 56 lt put in the tank

Yesterday travelling interstate i managed just over 500 clicks on one tank and the fuel light hadnt shown up, but was very close. Worked out to be 11.7 litres per 100kms, that included a number of hard overtakes due to all the clipsal traffic. Other times with less traffic and a lighter foot scored 10 litres per 100km. Havent been paying attention to around town but from memory its obviously no where near that.

stock redtop rb20det running 12psi does about 13L/100km

City or highway makes no difference as there's always at least one hills run per tank to screw with the economy. Pretty happy with that as its got the crap old computer and it runs very rich at around 10:1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...