Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont do it noel :wave: wait until i get mine working close to 99% effeciently then you can do your power goal :wave: Contact dan at eliteracing for alot of your needs very very helpfull aswell, but a hard person to book something in with. Always busy :laugh: but always will fit you in, and will pretty well explain alot of things for you. Not only that the above mentioned list will be a good start.

555cc nismos will do the job for that power, (850)

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump (250) Make sure you hard wire to battery terminal

Or tomei (400) Direct fit no hassels

Clutch (Check the desired specs of it first)

Turbo Choice seems that 2540r was not bad in power range with registering 249rkws on that dyno with the 0.64 housing. Fat torque good power, or the highflow will/should also do the job. (1000 to 2000) Including lines.

Catch can (90)

ECU (Pfc less than 900) (Haltec upwards of 2000)

Tune (600 cash job allstar)

Splitfires (550 to 600 delivered) Check forsale section here

Plugs go the sevens heat range gapped 0.8mm (30)

Cams if you want them tomei 256/8.5 (850 delivered through nengun)

Z32 (ecu dependant as haltecs use map sensors) (250 upwards)

And den

Brakes (new pads slotted discs) Contact Dan

Suspension check the group buys

And den

Wheels your choice you know the price by now

And den..

Thats all i can think of. Oh fuel reg you dont need one unless chasing exceeding power of injectors or pump not sufficient in pumping enough fuel but nismos adjustable is sufficent for the task if you would like it. (upwards from 200 pends where you shop)

Boost controller (Too many to choose from currently using greddy profec b will let you know how it goes after i fine tune the boost settings lol) But check the FI section or Forsale section and business section for this very well competatively priced (Check out slide as a personal choice he can help)

There ya go old fella :D

Please note prices are close to the cheapest i have found and you may find cheaper. so dont take for granted on the above prices.

Thankyou

Adam

Oh and Noel or others, please allow for the case of shythappens and murphys law (If anything can go wrong, will go wrong) Budget for this case

Thanx Adam. Did i read you right when you said you had previously made 249 kws on that same dyno.

That list pretty much mirrors what I have come up with.

As a matter of interest, why do you think your reading was down a bit on the day.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanx Adam. Did i read you right when you said you had previously made 249 kws on that same dyno.

That list pretty much mirrors what I have come up with.

As a matter of interest, why do you think your reading was down a bit on the day.

he made, as i understand it 244kw on a different dyno (dynodynamics)..as mentioned allstars dyno reads a little lower than other dynos (lets not go into dyno talk again lol)

No that guy that made 249 was running 2540r on rb25det stock as a rock r33. i dont know why it is was low but am going through elimination to get to the source and will keep those people updated once i have found the weakest link :wave:

No that guy that made 249 was running 2540r on rb25det stock as a rock r33. i dont know why it is was low but am going through elimination to get to the source and will keep those people updated once i have found the weakest link :wave:

what boost were you running at the dyno day?

Please refer to pm or comments on dyno thread or in my signature not to be rude but would not like to 1. hog noels thread and 2. turn this into a dyno discussion as i have mentioned my results in the anual dyno day discussion thread on the qld page. Cheers guys

Oh and 1.2 bar or around 16 psi

:wave: Adam

Called in and had a chat with arron at sliders this morning. Most informative. I am now 99% sold on the stage 3 hiflow as my preferred turbo option. On the surface it would appear that this turbo will give me the best result in achieving max squirt at low to mid range.

Hes a darn nice young fella to boot.

Called in and had a chat with arron at sliders this morning. Most informative. I am now 99% sold on the stage 3 hiflow as my preferred turbo option. On the surface it would appear that this turbo will give me the best result in achieving max squirt at low to mid range.

Hes a darn nice young fella to boot.

like i said on saturday noel... highflow.

cheap and reliable... 250 is quite easy with bolt on's.

My current mods to achieve the neck snapping 178 rwkw we saw on saturday are as follows.

good pipes from turbo back

apexi pod filter

apexi lightened flywheel

ceramic 5 puck clutch

largish fmic

safc2 piggy back

For those with similar specs on a rb25 engine. What power figures have you attained, What does your torque curve look like.

Hey buddy

I made 187rwkw on that dyno on saturday with just exhaust,cooler and pod, running 12psi. so your not far off the mark so far, SAFC2 aside. :laugh:

Edited by Spooner

Why does everyone say get your power, then think about brakes and suspension??

Am I the only one that thinks that the brakes and suspension are really not up to the task on a stock skyline let alone one with considerably more power. Its going to be a LOT easier to be quick in a car that easy to drive than one that is a complete handful.

IMHO get everything else sorted, brakes, suspension, cooling, then go searching for power.

Why does everyone say get your power, then think about brakes and suspension??

Am I the only one that thinks that the brakes and suspension are really not up to the task on a stock skyline let alone one with considerably more power. Its going to be a LOT easier to be quick in a car that easy to drive than one that is a complete handful.

IMHO get everything else sorted, brakes, suspension, cooling, then go searching for power.

it's easier for people to quote a dyno number than to quote a lap time.

that said, i think people have more power than they know what to do with.

Why does everyone say get your power, then think about brakes and suspension??

Am I the only one that thinks that the brakes and suspension are really not up to the task on a stock skyline let alone one with considerably more power. Its going to be a LOT easier to be quick in a car that easy to drive than one that is a complete handful.

IMHO get everything else sorted, brakes, suspension, cooling, then go searching for power.

Im just glad they are even considering brakes... :P

Most dont bother until they hit the track and realise how they need them...

The coils on one of my R32's I had with basic mods craped out at 12psi. These cars are getting old, I would replace them.

Then again, I tend to do things other may not.

I agree, nothing worse than turning up for the tune and getting half way through the first power run only to have your coils crap out

Horsepower without torque is just sex without a woman and we all know what that makes you

The answer is wanker, however I have a dilemma. I am infact a wanker due to other reason’s, which in turn technically would mean the correct answer could in fact be wrong?

Confirm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...