Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Driving home just now.Car wont boost and can hear it escaping from somewhere.Ive checked all the intercooler piping and cant see any clamps or hoses loose.Doesnt choke up like a intercooler hose was off.

Any suggestions???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158117-help-boost-escaping-from-somewhere/
Share on other sites

How do you know boost is escaping?

honestly, it could be coming from anywhere IF it is a boost leak.

Car drives normally,car free revs normally,but when driving and boosting under load the boost goes to 5-9psi then bleeds out from somewhere its very loud.

If it's audible, it's most likely not something small like a vacuum line. Something like that won't really be audible from inside the car.

Especially since most of our cars have exhausts air filter mods etc etc.

I'd put my money on one of the gaskets (they're loud as). maybe turbo to manifold gasket, manifold gasket, front pipe gasket, dump gasket, either cat gasket etc. There are heaps of gaskets.

If it's audible, it's most likely not something small like a vacuum line. Something like that won't really be audible from inside the car.

Especially since most of our cars have exhausts air filter mods etc etc.

I'd put my money on one of the gaskets (they're loud as). maybe turbo to manifold gasket, manifold gasket, front pipe gasket, dump gasket, either cat gasket etc. There are heaps of gaskets.

great thats all i need.Hopefully its the turbo one,and i can get my arse into gear and get this highflow happening ;)

One of the cars I did had a gasket leak so loud that once you got onto boost, it started squeeling so crazily.

The workshop will know when they do your turbo. There are things to look out for e.g. if there's black soot above a certain part of the manifold gasket, it's an exhaust leak there.

The gaskets for pretty much all of the exhaust bits including turbo to manifold, front pipe (if you've still got stock 2 part one), cat etc will be checked and replaced if needed too.

should be right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...