Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has had practical experience with injectors and rwkw.

Can you use a linear relationship to determine the approx duty cycle as you raise the boost and make more power.

e.g. If you are seeing 70% inj duty ~ 170rwkw

If linear then at 90% inj duty should be ~ 218rwkw (based on quick calc)

And I guess 90% is about the most you want to push it..

Question: I'm going to keep my stock injectors so would I be safer to

1. Just tune till these get close to 90% and live with that (Would that be around the 220rwkw..).

Or

2. Would I be best to increase the Fuel pressure slightly so that the inj duty max 85%?

I really want to get about 220rwkw which will be about a 27% increase in power. I realise I should renew some of the hose to do this..

P.s. I'm going to be putting in a gtr pump to ensure the pump isn't limiting things..

The R34 in HPI got to 90% @225rwkw

http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/reviews02.htm

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158253-fuel-injector-duty-cycle-vs-rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

there is no way you can get a relationship between injector duty and rwkw. thats just silly. every car is different. different pump conditions different fuel line different engine condition / turbo condition / intercooler setup / head setup and the list goes on.

run the fuel pressure at 46psi and use the injector duty up to around 95% absolute maximum which should see between 210rwkw to 230rwkw

Its on the same car though...so I thought you may be able to compare..

Provided the fuel pump etc can hold the pressure.

Yeah - Ill probably get a Nismo FPR and set it about 8 or 10psi above stock pressure. Does anyone know what stock fuel filters are rated at? I.e. how many psi ..because 46psi + 15psi (for boost) = 61psi max fuel pressure

See how we go.

Cheers

Im sorry, i would have to disagree with most of you, injector size is definately proportional to horsepower assuming the same AFR and duty cycle. A ported head or bigger turbo will make more horsepower and require bigger injectors. A car making 500rwkw will need double the fuel(approximately) than that of a 250rwkw car. There is a simple calculation of what duty cycle and fuel pressure will support a given hp with a certain set of injectors, i just cant remember where the formula is.

100% injector duty eek!!!.. hope you got the $$$ ready for a engine rebuild.

lol it's the first time I found the magical 100% I was told there's only 2 or 3 places in the mapping where it reaches it. normally it don't go above 90% but i do drive it fairly suttly at the moment, but these things happen when your showing of to someone :P

Anyway to clear it all up a little better, a better way of working out how much power your injectors will support isn't to look at the duty cycle so much but to look at the actual ability of the injectors to supply fuel. Generally it is more widley accepted with a 2.5-3L ish 6 that for ever 1cc of injectorage you'll get 1hp at the crank, so if your running 600cc injectors they'll safely support 600hp at the engine. If you relate this to my pic above for example, 440cc GTR injectors are supporting 415HP at the wheels but on very high injector duty which is bad. As I always say if you want more power, dun be a tightass just get bigger injectors they ain't expensive....

Exactly, so 370cc injectors at standard fuel pressure have the ability to make 370hp(its actually a bit less)so 360hp, which equates to about 220-230rwkw safely, as has been proved a number of times. Hope that answers a the question.

Most places I've spoken to, and sized up, have managed to work out the correct inj size, and they don't like to run over 80% DC at all!

They leave 20% for spiking etc, and for other necesities, and since using up to 80%, it makes it easier to tune (Rather then a car that only uses say 40%)

HP is almost directly proportional to fuel consumption (BSFC - Brake specific fuel consumption) in spark ignition engines if the same AFR is to be used. What you've got to remeber is that dynamic flow rates and static flow rates from injector to injector are quite different. Most Japanese injectors are expotential flow - meaning their flow rates with low duty clcyes may be far less than their flow rates at high DC ie its not linear.

Aslo accelleration enrichment in 90% of cases wont effect peak DC as once full thorttle is seen there is no more correction.

Don't forget the affect of acceleration enrichment.

;) cheers :wave:

This is the case with my car. If i dont let it warm up it will hit 100%. But after this

it only ever see's no more than 90% duty cycle. The car is a R33 GTST using the

stock injectors with a nismo FPR and is making 260RWKW. It's not a happy dyno

as i first thought because the car was run on there dyno when it was 160kw and

was run on two different dyno's in the space of 3 months and between all three

it varied 1kw.

This is the case with my car. If i dont let it warm up it will hit 100%. But after this

it only ever see's no more than 90% duty cycle. The car is a R33 GTST using the

stock injectors with a nismo FPR and is making 260RWKW. It's not a happy dyno

as i first thought because the car was run on there dyno when it was 160kw and

was run on two different dyno's in the space of 3 months and between all three

it varied 1kw.

Thats coolant correction not acceleration enrichment.

lol it's the first time I found the magical 100% I was told there's only 2 or 3 places in the mapping where it reaches it. normally it don't go above 90% but i do drive it fairly suttly at the moment, but these things happen when your showing of to someone ;)

When I was running stock injectors once it hit 100% it stayed there and fuel requirements only increased as rpm did so even if it wasn't making more power. Mine hit 100% duty at around 5200rpm at WOT from memory.

ECU puts more fuel in when cold because the cylinders are cold. What happens is some of the fuel when sprayed in, condenses on the inside of the chamber leaving less available for burning. The ecu knows about this so puts more fuel in when the engine is cold to compensate. It assumes cylinder temps based on water temps.

It's just trying to keep the AFR's where they normally are when the engine is wamed up.

Also has anyone watched a dyno run when the injectors hit 100%? It actually goes rich. I'm told this is because they have given up all pretense at opening and closing and just stay open all the time. This means that much more fuel is put in at 100% compared to 99% than is put in aat 99% compared to 98%.

Also has anyone watched a dyno run when the injectors hit 100%? It actually goes rich. I'm told this is because they have given up all pretense at opening and closing and just stay open all the time. This means that much more fuel is put in at 100% compared to 99% than is put in aat 99% compared to 98%.

Never seen that before. Most injectors flow about the same between around 97-100% Duty cycle. Usually you can tell your out of injectors as the AFR will enlean linerarly at 45deg angle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...