Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys we can rule out intercooler pipes blowing open under presure as these were all removed and doubble checked yesterday..... Still haven't done 02 sensor or fuel reg yet, hopefully these will be done today but i am at the mercy of the mechanic who just happens to be my girly's old man and for some reason like doing paying jobs more???????? :)

money still on BOV :)

undo the ricirc pipe block it off and then cover the snout of the BOV with lots of duct tape so it will not leak. go for a drive and see if the car is still doing it :D

I had similar problems a while back, it turned out to be the idle control valve thing under the throttle body (I cant remember the name correctly) but I pulled that out and replaced it and bam! all my problems went away and fuel economy returned. This was of course after I checked just about everything else... - I think thats what 1400r and JVP-R32 are talking about.

I had similar problems a while back, it turned out to be the idle control valve thing under the throttle body (I cant remember the name correctly) but I pulled that out and replaced it and bam! all my problems went away and fuel economy returned. This was of course after I checked just about everything else... - I think thats what 1400r and JVP-R32 are talking about.

Thanks ill add it to the list!!!

ok here is an update.... It has been worked out today that one of the temperature sensors was giving a dud reading because of a caroded terminal, so we are replacing some of the damaged terminals and cleaning up some of the others. That has apparently fixed the dud idle!!! Horay for that as it has been like that for nearly a year...... But as for the power and turbo problems!!! that has been tracked down to the waste gate opening early hence the lag but the turbo sounded like it was spooling fine. Now for my next question...... Would this be a buggered actuator? or i believe there is a spring that pulls the wastegate into the closed position? is that kinda right or am i just tripping.

Thanks again for all the help guys! :D

I'VE HAD A LEAK IN MY INTERCOOLER FOR ROUGHLY 4 MONTHS NOW(WONT EVEN HANDLE 7PSI)AND IVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT!! ID LIKE TO KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE IN HERE ACTUALLY HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS.

If you read one post up he says the stalling prob is solved, it was caused by a caroded terminal on the temp sensor...

Edited by WilYawn
Block the wastegate shut and take it for a test drive, keep an eye on the boost meter though. Dont want it to go boom!

Yeah thanks thats what we are going to do.... dont have a boost guage other than the factory one though. Should probably invest in one. But yes i dont intend on testing anything to the fullest so i will be keeping a very close eye on how far i actually push!!!! im thinking keeping hard acceleration below about 3500 4000 rpm should be enough to tell me all i need to know and hopefully keep boost at sane levels. Factory boost cut should still be in place as far as i know unless it was removed previously in japan. I aim not to test this though..... :D

I'VE HAD A LEAK IN MY INTERCOOLER FOR ROUGHLY 4 MONTHS NOW(WONT EVEN HANDLE 7PSI)AND IVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT!! ID LIKE TO KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE IN HERE ACTUALLY HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS.

Lets hope you havn't glazed the bores by having a IC leak.

I'VE HAD A LEAK IN MY INTERCOOLER FOR ROUGHLY 4 MONTHS NOW(WONT EVEN HANDLE 7PSI)AND IVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT!! ID LIKE TO KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE IN HERE ACTUALLY HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS.

If you've had a IC leak for 4 months then you clearly don't have any. LMAO!!! :D

when one of the cooler pipes close to the turbo outlet ( the first join after the elbow) blew completely off in an r32 i was doing an intercooler install on, the car ran fine but stalled when coming to idle. if you held it at 1100 it would run. there was a good 10/20mm gap between the 2 pipes at the closest point, but they were still facing each other. the turbo was basically "fanning" the unmetered intake.

in less extreme cases, if some boost is lost in the cooler pipes then it has already been metered and fueled for, so you are always going to be too rich for the actual air in the cylinders.

Edited by jeffworld2

Hey guys, after scanning some of the other threads some people think that cleaning the injectors could be a good idea for fixing idle issues???? Any one got any thoughts on this??? Also how much would it cost roughly to get the injectors cleaned???? Could be an idea to do them anyway cause they certainly haven't been done since the car has been in australia running on our sh$%ty fuel!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...