Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst Hesitates When Cold

buggor34

By buggor34,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

yeh mine does the same, it would seem most do this, im just more interested in the fuel smell part, anyone here have a straight through? Rekin urs sounds pretty quite so i would assume uve got a decent exhaust on urs.

(oo\__4Door__/oo) Collaborator

(oo\__4Door__/oo)

Posted
Posted (edited)
mine does that too.

i dont mind. its like a reminded not to go too fast when its cold :(

after about 1 or 2 minutes of driving. its completely fine.

hhahah oh so true mine does the same thing and it is a reminder a little, only eva does it first thing, wat about if u start ur car on a hot summer day wit hot air im pretty sure from memory it does it but alot quicker to jump to the pace,

let it warm up u dont notice shit

AAC vale cloggin its understandable to

U cold start issue i had was fixed wit a new AFM

cheers brett

Edited by (oo\__4Door__/oo)
Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

got a apexi catback exhaust :P

Ive had my afm checked, o2 sensor checked, aac valve cleaned, pod filter cleaned, fuel pressure checked. Not sure what else to check? haha

There must be some common fault we seem to all be overlooking which causes this :s

buggor34 Proficient

buggor34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i think that is the case, i dont think its a problem it seems normal. Others probably dont notice it because they warm up their car more than we obviously do. Therefore they dont experience this problem. I gurantee once winter hits this topic will be covered many times again.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I have the same deal (the cold start, have to blip the throttle once to keep it running) and the the hestitation. Mine does it at 2k if I don't let it warm all the way up (which can take like 10mins if not driving!). I figure at 2k it's just limp mode because it's still cold. I let it idle for minimum of 30 seconds before taking off and just take it easy and shift below 2k until my temp guage is at halfway then it's all fine. Usually she gets enough to as it takes me to smoke a cigarette in the morning to warmup, which barely moves the needle, then I start driving her.

P.S. This is on an RB20DET :)

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

mine is the same, hesitates on startup then runs like crap for a bit... i think it pings sounds like popcorn popping under the bonnet, has no power and feels like the coils are f**ked, a quick squirt in 1st or 2nd around the corner makes it go away

dependable_drift Rookie

dependable_drift

Posted
Posted

nisskid mine does this also, i have straight through exhaust with a "special" cat

except if you stand outside the car it burns your eyes! still seems to run fine at

normal operating temp and has been tuned so maybe just an r32 thing??

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
nisskid mine does this also, i have straight through exhaust with a "special" cat

except if you stand outside the car it burns your eyes! still seems to run fine at

normal operating temp and has been tuned so maybe just an r32 thing??

alright thats good to know, cheers.

Johnzm Rookie

Johnzm

Posted
Posted (edited)

think knock sensor.. consult shows timing going to 7 degrees and not altering while accel, then past a certain point, jumps to 20-30 degrees. suspect knock sensor problems causing the issue. at first thought it could be coolant temp sensor (causing rich run to make sluggishness) then i plugged the consult in.

i can up a file if anyone wants to see it. i am on a S13 swapped RB20. anyone with a really fresh RB20 having this problem? maybe the sensor rattled loose in the case, or theres an abnormal rattle in the motor when its cold....

oh yes, i have 2 ECU's one is chipped and tune the other is unchipped stock. both ECU do the same thing

Edited by Johnzm
Johnzm Rookie

Johnzm

Posted
Posted (edited)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=12923

anyone care to try this? my car is not running at the moment (clutch pedal exploded:(

also http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ation&st=20

Edited by Johnzm
Johnzm Rookie

Johnzm

Posted
Posted
check the thermostat...

my car used to run shit for a good ten minutes every morning, turned out the thermostat was rooted and allowing water through the radiator all the time... my piston rings were also cactus and that didn't help:/

ive run my car with 4 diff thermo's, 180's and 170's. also with no thermo at all, and also with "water restrictor" (metal with a hole in it to slow down total flow, but no thermo element)

nothing helped this problem except getting it hot faster, which would be a totally clogged radiator and a thermostat LOL

  • 4 weeks later...
WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

just bumping this thread as i've found a temporary solution that i use now...

try this:

- start the car

- let it idle for 30sec - 1min, give it a blip of the throttle to check that its got its usual flat feel to it

- turn the car off

- immediately turn the car back on

- blip the throttle again... notice the flat feel is gone?

i was getting annoyed by having the car jerk around for a few minutes while i had passengers in it and its very annoying. this way the car drives perfect. its no excuse to stop driving sedately while the engine warms up, but it restores the dormal driving characteristics in the mean time.

must be something to do with the ECU sensing that the engine has been off for a certain period of time. thus, when the car is turned off and then on again, the ECU thinks its been on recently and uses the normal timing and fuel maps...

keen to see if it helps others... post up your results...

cheers,

Warren

Master_bo_bo Explorer

Master_bo_bo

Posted
Posted

well i seem to be having the same problem as everyone else...tho my car starts perfectly ever morning..but its the drives...ill be driving n as soon as it reaches around 3000rpm..it feels like its got no power...i usually just keep driving till the temp needle reach half way n its gone..that usually take around 5 to 7mins

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      R32 Nostalgia

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • niZmO_Man
      New R32 owner soon

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • Duncan
      1992 R32 GT-R Race Car

      By Duncan · Posted

      heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • Duncan
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Duncan · Posted

      meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...