Jump to content
SAU Community

I Can Wobble My Rear Wheels With My Hands

Birth
 Share

Recommended Posts

Birth Experienced

Birth

Posted
Posted

Hi all, I would like some advice.

I have jacked my car up off the ground and found that I can wobble my rear wheel about 5mm by applying fairly slight pressure with my hands on the left and right hand side of the wheel. It does not wobble when I shake it from the top and bottom. Is this normal? Have I got worn bushes? Tyre wear seems normal.

My car is a 1993 R32 GTS4 with stock arms / bushes, GTRGeoff hicas lock bar and whiteline shocks.

I have put a (dodgy) pic of what I mean to help with my explaination.

Thanks,

Ben.

post-28712-1172791431.jpg

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

sounds like a worn bussh somehere. Go to pedders and get a $14 28 point safety check, that is the best way to pick up problems. After that you can do all the work yourself.

There are a few bushes there, so maybe take the wheel off and have a good look arround. Maybe a ball joint on the lock out bar.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

combination of old soft rubber bushes front and a flogged out tierod ball joint (or tierod end) rear.

If you remove the rubber boot on the end of the hicas rack and get someone to move the wheel for you it's pretty obvious if the ball joint is shagged. Any movement = borked

gts4diehard Rising Star

gts4diehard

Posted
Posted

it will be combination of the link bushes and the tierods, more likely the tierods. Did you fit the old steering arms to the hicas lock bar?

The rear bushes needs a little movement in them because the hicas is basically compressing the bushes to give the car rear steering.

But you should not feel any movement at all by hand.

First thing I would try is new steering arms (from the hicas lock bar to the tierod end in the hub) as the ball joint might be worn. If that doesn't cure it then you will need to remove the hubs to replace the link bushes in the hubs. Once you see how involved that is you might as well replace the lot, because its not a job you want to do twice!

I replaced the bushes in my hubs, and the steering arms and that tightened up the rear end so that you couldn't feel any movement at all. The next step would have been to replace the bushes in the links themselves to have basically new rear suspension.

The car felt more controlled at high speed into corners after that (on qld raceway), and I think that the Hicas was not in any way detrimental to the cars handling considering that the hicas was now working with components in good condition.

  • 10 months later...
noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

When removing the rear hub assembly did you have to replace many parts

was wondering if i can just unbolt the shafts and the hub assemblys etc

replace tierod /hicas ends in a press then bolt it all back up?

I assume you would have to use a press or maybe a porta power to actually press the tierod /hicas ens out of the hub assembly etc

  • 5 months later...
RB20JT Rising Star

RB20JT

Posted
Posted

sorry mate what are s/h items...my car has done 125000kms...but the guy before me had shopped springs in it..so that would have sped up the wearing out process...

also what do they cost and from where?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
sorry mate what are s/h items...my car has done 125000kms...but the guy before me had shopped springs in it..so that would have sped up the wearing out process...

also what do they cost and from where?

s/h = second hand.

chopped springs would be unlike to cause damage. Hitting gutters ripple strips etc would. :)

I picked up a complete rack from Wally at Zimports for bugger all can't remember the price but it was under $100.

I recently bought a new steer rack with rod ends as the front left did the same; that cost me $100 for the complete rack and tie rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...