Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, got some info, see if this helps:

see pic;

DISPLAY AND NAVI

32 Reverse lamp

33 Parking brake

34 foot brake

35 inhibitor (something to do with auto ??)

25 speed meter

my guess is track down 33, which i guess is on the back of navi unit or radio, check if it is earthed when park brake on/off and cut/earth appropriately. the unit on the upper right of pic is the tv tuner in the back.

Thanks Chook, that's great!

I will get in and have a good look at the tuner and let you know how I get on.

Cheers

Luke

(You can read Japanese yeah?)

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok, no luck at all with that wire chasing, seems like I have about half the amount of connections that the diagram shows so might be the wrong model or something... I will hunt through the manual and see if I can post up what my (wiring) setup is like.

Basically I have 2 looms running into the head and only one of these effects the screen switching and that is not the same one that supplies the video feed from the tuner in the back so I am looking at a maximum of 12 - 15 wires for a solution. None of the wires are doing a simple earth or power switch though so I may need to be looking else where for some form of switching unit that is sending a more complex signal to the head, nothing seems simple electronically with this car...

Cheers

Luke

Ok, appears more complicated than i thought too, operates on both the Auto and handbrake. here is a pic of the screen overide unit, which jumpers in between the white plug and the back of screen, as you can see, it is quite complicated, about 10 wires going into it. the small black plug is for a dash switch to operate the overide. Ill check Jap websites to see if this is still available, but as for doing it yourself, It looks pretty complicated after seeing this harness.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rca/datasystem-ntv142/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/kong/645758/646238/645808/

NTV142 is the one you need i believe

post-780-1175070505.jpg

Edited by chook
Ok, appears more complicated than i thought too, operates on both the Auto and handbrake. here is a pic of the screen overide unit, which jumpers in between the white plug and the back of screen, as you can see, it is quite complicated, about 10 wires going into it. the small black plug is for a dash switch to operate the overide. Ill check Jap websites to see if this is still available, but as for doing it yourself, It looks pretty complicated after seeing this harness.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rca/datasystem-ntv142/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/kong/645758/646238/645808/

NTV142 is the one you need i believe

Awesome thanks, think I need to look at this approach.

(sorry I have been PMing you and not looking at the topic!)

  • 2 weeks later...

Don't forget that not all ECU's etc use a Positive voltage to signify a signal on/off

for instance on some ECUs pulling a wire to ground makes stuff come on ( ie thermo fans )

so perhaps look at that if you dont have any luck

* sorry I know thats not at all directly related to your problem so it may or may not help *

Converter box is in and working 100%, very easy plug and play unit and after seeing the complexity of it and how many of the wires in the loom it effects I don't think anyone would be bothered to work out how to achieve this without it!

Unit is the same as the one Chook has posted the image of and a huge thanks to him for his help with this, would never have resolved it otherwise.

Rear view on the screen while driving is pretty cool (easily amused)

Now I am considering multiple cameras and a switch box...

Cheers

Luke

I got a friend in Japan to order and send it for $200.

Ahh! So does this actually convert NTSC to PAL (ie; get the DVD, TV etc. working) or is it something just to get a camera going? Sorry if im asking a question thats already been answered, i didnt quite catch on from the previous posts ......

Ahh! So does this actually convert NTSC to PAL (ie; get the DVD, TV etc. working) or is it something just to get a camera going? Sorry if im asking a question thats already been answered, i didnt quite catch on from the previous posts ......

No, no converting at all, this is all just about having a video signal on the factory screen while in motion.

No, no converting at all, this is all just about having a video signal on the factory screen while in motion.

I get ya now :P

So there is nothing available at all to get the factory TV etc working besides changing the unit? Reason im asking this is because i dont think i can actually change mine (its got the air con etc.. all in the one unit) so yeh, just wanted to know basically what will and wont work :(

I get ya now :P

So there is nothing available at all to get the factory TV etc working besides changing the unit? Reason im asking this is because i dont think i can actually change mine (its got the air con etc.. all in the one unit) so yeh, just wanted to know basically what will and wont work :(

There is a converter available that converts PAL signal to NTSC format or vice versa. Google it.

http://www.threedoubleyou.com/cdm660.htm

I run this NTSC converter along with a 12V digital STB, plumbed into the VTR2 inputs, wired into the factory window aerial, quite an effort, but well worth it.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...