Jump to content
SAU Community

New Clutch Friction Point

simmyb
 Share

Recommended Posts

simmyb Community Regular

simmyb

Posted
Posted

Just got a new clutch a month ago and it functions fine

bite(Friction) point has always been at the top end and as it has worn a little it has moved right up the top, which is anoying to drive with...

it is a excedy heavy duty cushion button clutch.

could it be:

the way they installed it/ adjusted it?

Or anything to do with the master cylinder?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159342-new-clutch-friction-point/
Share on other sites
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Just got a new clutch a month ago and it functions fine

bite(Friction) point has always been at the top end and as it has worn a little it has moved right up the top, which is anoying to drive with...

it is a excedy heavy duty cushion button clutch.

could it be:

the way they installed it/ adjusted it?

Or anything to do with the master cylinder?

Mine is the same,i have an Xtreme cushion button,you get use to it mate,but yeh it is annoying.

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

Yeah I just got one of these Excedy hd ceramic cushion button clutches last week and now I'm regretting it, do you guys find it impossible to get off the line smoothly!!!!.

I need advice on using it, I have been giving it about 20% throttle and letting out the clutch as quickly as possible otherwise it shudders badly and feels like I'm damaging it. I'm always chug chugging of the line hoping that i dont snap a gear. Do I just need practise cos I've tried everything I can, maybe an organic clutch is better for me.

NYTSKY how do you live with it for street driving??

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Yeah I just got one of these Excedy hd ceramic cushion button clutches last week and now I'm regretting it, do you guys find it impossible to get off the line smoothly!!!!.

I need advice on using it, I have been giving it about 20% throttle and letting out the clutch as quickly as possible otherwise it shudders badly and feels like I'm damaging it. I'm always chug chugging of the line hoping that i dont snap a gear. Do I just need practise cos I've tried everything I can, maybe an organic clutch is better for me.

NYTSKY how do you live with it for street driving??

Practice makes perfect,had mine for 4 months will never go back to full face plate.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Top end?

So the clutch engages just before your about to take your foot off the pedal. i.e all the way out?

I run an Xtreme 9puk ceramic. It bites hard and doesn't shudder unless your really trying to ride it in peak hour. Its basically a briskish take off. Reversing 'can' shudder a touch but its not too bad once you get the hang of it.

I've grown to really like the quick take up/grab of the ceramic puks. I could never go back to organic. :P

Initially its take up/grab point was very close to the floor

It has since worn quite a bit over almost 60,000km's, its take up point/grab is now ~1/2 way up the pedal. It still grabs hard but has started to slip occasionally on hard second gear shifts.

My only regret was opting for the 1050kg pressure plate. Its already broke my pedal box, I was fortunate enough to grab it before it completely tore the metal and was able to simply have it rewelded.

If your running a 800kg+ clutch definitely rip your pedal box and have it welded up. The poxy spot welds break easily. :S

Thunderbolt Rising Star

Thunderbolt

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yeah I just got one of these Excedy hd ceramic cushion button clutches last week and now I'm regretting it, do you guys find it impossible to get off the line smoothly!!!!.

I need advice on using it, I have been giving it about 20% throttle and letting out the clutch as quickly as possible otherwise it shudders badly and feels like I'm damaging it. I'm always chug chugging of the line hoping that i dont snap a gear. Do I just need practise cos I've tried everything I can, maybe an organic clutch is better for me.

NYTSKY how do you live with it for street driving??

Do you have the stock viscous diff in it?

What I found happens with a viscous diff is it allows some slip off the line before the diff locks up. When it is in the process of locking up, you will feel some vibration (or shudder). It is more noticeable with a button, as you have to give it more to get it moving.

If you have a clutch type diff (or open wheeler) then ignore what I just said.

ps. simmyb: I know that some cars allow some pedal adjustment so the friction point will be right. You would probably find that you can do this.

Edited by Thunderbolt
Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

The friction point is about three quarters from the floor and it will shudder if you put any load on it. I'm basically dumping the clutch with plenty of throttle to get off the line its a pretty quick takeoff all the time, reversing is bad I engage the clutch quickly and push it back in over and over to go about 3kph. For changing 1-2-3-4 its great much quicker than an organic.

Do you have the stock viscous diff in it?

Yeah I do would this be a problem anyone, Simmy do you use the stock diff?

The place where I had it fitted didn't machine the flywheel is this important?

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

Mine is 5 puk cushioned rated at 260rwkw

pretty sure the diff isn't a problem as I can feel the shudder through the clutch pedal might give it a few weeks and try to get used to it. Not easy going from sloppy stock clutch to a ceramic button.

simmyb Community Regular

simmyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

a ceramic clutch will give a shudder at the friction point if released slowely with a small amount of revs. Due to the type of clutch. with good clutch work, you should be able to release the clutch over the friction point with the right amount of revs ( more than on an organic clutch) and the car should take off smoothly with a little jolt from the grip, and maybe even a small skretch from the tyres.

and yes, i have a hardcore 2 way diff!

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Cubes i also feel that tiny bit of shudder in reverse.And am also running with a stock flywheel.

I think ill be upgrading the fly wheel in the future.It feels like the puks are grinding a ring into my flywheel sometimes. Must say when giving it a bit of a boot,there is no slippage at all,i also oppted for the 1050kg pressure plate,ive had no dramas yet,but will keep an eye on the pedal box from now on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Kinkstaah
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...