Jump to content
SAU Community

New Clutch Friction Point

simmyb
 Share

Recommended Posts

simmyb Community Regular

simmyb

Posted
Posted

Just got a new clutch a month ago and it functions fine

bite(Friction) point has always been at the top end and as it has worn a little it has moved right up the top, which is anoying to drive with...

it is a excedy heavy duty cushion button clutch.

could it be:

the way they installed it/ adjusted it?

Or anything to do with the master cylinder?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159342-new-clutch-friction-point/
Share on other sites
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Just got a new clutch a month ago and it functions fine

bite(Friction) point has always been at the top end and as it has worn a little it has moved right up the top, which is anoying to drive with...

it is a excedy heavy duty cushion button clutch.

could it be:

the way they installed it/ adjusted it?

Or anything to do with the master cylinder?

Mine is the same,i have an Xtreme cushion button,you get use to it mate,but yeh it is annoying.

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

Yeah I just got one of these Excedy hd ceramic cushion button clutches last week and now I'm regretting it, do you guys find it impossible to get off the line smoothly!!!!.

I need advice on using it, I have been giving it about 20% throttle and letting out the clutch as quickly as possible otherwise it shudders badly and feels like I'm damaging it. I'm always chug chugging of the line hoping that i dont snap a gear. Do I just need practise cos I've tried everything I can, maybe an organic clutch is better for me.

NYTSKY how do you live with it for street driving??

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Yeah I just got one of these Excedy hd ceramic cushion button clutches last week and now I'm regretting it, do you guys find it impossible to get off the line smoothly!!!!.

I need advice on using it, I have been giving it about 20% throttle and letting out the clutch as quickly as possible otherwise it shudders badly and feels like I'm damaging it. I'm always chug chugging of the line hoping that i dont snap a gear. Do I just need practise cos I've tried everything I can, maybe an organic clutch is better for me.

NYTSKY how do you live with it for street driving??

Practice makes perfect,had mine for 4 months will never go back to full face plate.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Top end?

So the clutch engages just before your about to take your foot off the pedal. i.e all the way out?

I run an Xtreme 9puk ceramic. It bites hard and doesn't shudder unless your really trying to ride it in peak hour. Its basically a briskish take off. Reversing 'can' shudder a touch but its not too bad once you get the hang of it.

I've grown to really like the quick take up/grab of the ceramic puks. I could never go back to organic. :P

Initially its take up/grab point was very close to the floor

It has since worn quite a bit over almost 60,000km's, its take up point/grab is now ~1/2 way up the pedal. It still grabs hard but has started to slip occasionally on hard second gear shifts.

My only regret was opting for the 1050kg pressure plate. Its already broke my pedal box, I was fortunate enough to grab it before it completely tore the metal and was able to simply have it rewelded.

If your running a 800kg+ clutch definitely rip your pedal box and have it welded up. The poxy spot welds break easily. :S

Thunderbolt Rising Star

Thunderbolt

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yeah I just got one of these Excedy hd ceramic cushion button clutches last week and now I'm regretting it, do you guys find it impossible to get off the line smoothly!!!!.

I need advice on using it, I have been giving it about 20% throttle and letting out the clutch as quickly as possible otherwise it shudders badly and feels like I'm damaging it. I'm always chug chugging of the line hoping that i dont snap a gear. Do I just need practise cos I've tried everything I can, maybe an organic clutch is better for me.

NYTSKY how do you live with it for street driving??

Do you have the stock viscous diff in it?

What I found happens with a viscous diff is it allows some slip off the line before the diff locks up. When it is in the process of locking up, you will feel some vibration (or shudder). It is more noticeable with a button, as you have to give it more to get it moving.

If you have a clutch type diff (or open wheeler) then ignore what I just said.

ps. simmyb: I know that some cars allow some pedal adjustment so the friction point will be right. You would probably find that you can do this.

Edited by Thunderbolt
Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

The friction point is about three quarters from the floor and it will shudder if you put any load on it. I'm basically dumping the clutch with plenty of throttle to get off the line its a pretty quick takeoff all the time, reversing is bad I engage the clutch quickly and push it back in over and over to go about 3kph. For changing 1-2-3-4 its great much quicker than an organic.

Do you have the stock viscous diff in it?

Yeah I do would this be a problem anyone, Simmy do you use the stock diff?

The place where I had it fitted didn't machine the flywheel is this important?

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

Mine is 5 puk cushioned rated at 260rwkw

pretty sure the diff isn't a problem as I can feel the shudder through the clutch pedal might give it a few weeks and try to get used to it. Not easy going from sloppy stock clutch to a ceramic button.

simmyb Community Regular

simmyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

a ceramic clutch will give a shudder at the friction point if released slowely with a small amount of revs. Due to the type of clutch. with good clutch work, you should be able to release the clutch over the friction point with the right amount of revs ( more than on an organic clutch) and the car should take off smoothly with a little jolt from the grip, and maybe even a small skretch from the tyres.

and yes, i have a hardcore 2 way diff!

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Cubes i also feel that tiny bit of shudder in reverse.And am also running with a stock flywheel.

I think ill be upgrading the fly wheel in the future.It feels like the puks are grinding a ring into my flywheel sometimes. Must say when giving it a bit of a boot,there is no slippage at all,i also oppted for the 1050kg pressure plate,ive had no dramas yet,but will keep an eye on the pedal box from now on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...