Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can get a brand new set of gt2860r turbo's for my r33 gtr vspec for a good price!

Has anyone had any experience with these turbo's before???

What are they like??

It's for a street car so i need some response still???

Any thoughts would be handy!!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159854-would-these-turbos-be-ok/
Share on other sites

yep just put some on my R32 GTR

feel great just a little bit lagger than stock R32 units but push really hard.

Only thing that didnt fit was the oil drain fitting on bottom of turbo so the bolt holes need to be slotted to fit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Noone,

Fairly self explanatory, tis when you need it to fit, but cant be F'd or don't need to make a new bracket... so you drill / file out to fit

Scuze paintshop work

Are you sure that was all the issues? I had a mechanic describe a whole list of issues putting these on - of course I can't remember the specifics.

I see you're in canberra - did you do it yourself, or get some place to help you out?

Edited by cash0

Yer I just fitted them to my 32 as well. It's a big job but yes they do bolt straight up and the only modification is to slot the oil drian holes. It does seem alittle dodgy but but there's no presure in these lines so it's perfectly ok to slot the holes. I'm having other issues with mine at the moment though with "shuffle", mainly because I haven't got the necessary supporting mods yet and it's not tuned.

Are you sure that was all the issues? I had a mechanic describe a whole list of issues putting these on - of course I can't remember the specifics.

I see you're in canberra - did you do it yourself, or get some place to help you out?

there are more "tricks" than "issues" when fitting them. Many green gtr mecahnics struggle with removing and fitting the turbos ie taking like 2 days to do the swaps....

Edited by URAS
I can get a brand new set of gt2860r turbo's for my r33 gtr vspec for a good price!

Has anyone had any experience with these turbo's before???

What are they like??

It's for a street car so i need some response still???

Any thoughts would be handy!!

Thanks

They are a direct bolt on....which type do you have..-7,-5,-10?????

Each are different.

Okay havn't had my turbos off YET so wasnt sure just thought drain holes would be threaded, slotting seemed like it could result in leaks I am assuming that isnt the case.

These sound like the go though little bit more lag than stock but capable of heaps more up top with the 2860 -7

and abit more lag than "-7's" with heaps more up top for the 2860 -5's

Just to clarify can I make a bracket change lines to avoid the need to slot the holes? Is there any point avoiding it ie. does it leak or anything if u do?

Edited by noone
Just to clarify can I make a bracket change lines to avoid the need to slot the holes? Is there any point avoiding it ie. does it leak or anything if u do?

its a common mod, if you cant master this simple task without disaster it would probaly pay to get some-one to install the turbos for you. trust me you should be fine.

thanks for your help as I stated havnt yet taken turbos off YET so am just more than anything wondering if these holes are threaded etc. think I can probly make a bracket OK or slot the damn holes "without disaster" I just assumed at first read these holes would be threaded for the oil return lines yet others have stated they elongated the holes was curious as i thought you would have to get a good seal so as to not have oil going everywhere guess not.

Okay havn't had my turbos off YET so wasnt sure just thought drain holes would be threaded, slotting seemed like it could result in leaks I am assuming that isnt the case.

These sound like the go though little bit more lag than stock but capable of heaps more up top with the 2860 -5

and abit more lag than "-5's" with heaps more up top for the 2860 -7's

Just to clarify can I make a bracket change lines to avoid the need to slot the holes? Is there any point avoiding it ie. does it leak or anything if u do?

believe that

-7 is GTSS size

-5 is 2530 size

therefore you'd get more lag from a -5 than -7 but more top end for -5.

PS, byebyev8, big threads on these turbos if you search

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep it sure does.   Tone wheel lines up in the same spot perfectly.    
    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
×
×
  • Create New...