Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can get a brand new set of gt2860r turbo's for my r33 gtr vspec for a good price!

Has anyone had any experience with these turbo's before???

What are they like??

It's for a street car so i need some response still???

Any thoughts would be handy!!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159854-would-these-turbos-be-ok/
Share on other sites

yep just put some on my R32 GTR

feel great just a little bit lagger than stock R32 units but push really hard.

Only thing that didnt fit was the oil drain fitting on bottom of turbo so the bolt holes need to be slotted to fit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Noone,

Fairly self explanatory, tis when you need it to fit, but cant be F'd or don't need to make a new bracket... so you drill / file out to fit

Scuze paintshop work

Are you sure that was all the issues? I had a mechanic describe a whole list of issues putting these on - of course I can't remember the specifics.

I see you're in canberra - did you do it yourself, or get some place to help you out?

Edited by cash0

Yer I just fitted them to my 32 as well. It's a big job but yes they do bolt straight up and the only modification is to slot the oil drian holes. It does seem alittle dodgy but but there's no presure in these lines so it's perfectly ok to slot the holes. I'm having other issues with mine at the moment though with "shuffle", mainly because I haven't got the necessary supporting mods yet and it's not tuned.

Are you sure that was all the issues? I had a mechanic describe a whole list of issues putting these on - of course I can't remember the specifics.

I see you're in canberra - did you do it yourself, or get some place to help you out?

there are more "tricks" than "issues" when fitting them. Many green gtr mecahnics struggle with removing and fitting the turbos ie taking like 2 days to do the swaps....

Edited by URAS
I can get a brand new set of gt2860r turbo's for my r33 gtr vspec for a good price!

Has anyone had any experience with these turbo's before???

What are they like??

It's for a street car so i need some response still???

Any thoughts would be handy!!

Thanks

They are a direct bolt on....which type do you have..-7,-5,-10?????

Each are different.

Okay havn't had my turbos off YET so wasnt sure just thought drain holes would be threaded, slotting seemed like it could result in leaks I am assuming that isnt the case.

These sound like the go though little bit more lag than stock but capable of heaps more up top with the 2860 -7

and abit more lag than "-7's" with heaps more up top for the 2860 -5's

Just to clarify can I make a bracket change lines to avoid the need to slot the holes? Is there any point avoiding it ie. does it leak or anything if u do?

Edited by noone
Just to clarify can I make a bracket change lines to avoid the need to slot the holes? Is there any point avoiding it ie. does it leak or anything if u do?

its a common mod, if you cant master this simple task without disaster it would probaly pay to get some-one to install the turbos for you. trust me you should be fine.

thanks for your help as I stated havnt yet taken turbos off YET so am just more than anything wondering if these holes are threaded etc. think I can probly make a bracket OK or slot the damn holes "without disaster" I just assumed at first read these holes would be threaded for the oil return lines yet others have stated they elongated the holes was curious as i thought you would have to get a good seal so as to not have oil going everywhere guess not.

Okay havn't had my turbos off YET so wasnt sure just thought drain holes would be threaded, slotting seemed like it could result in leaks I am assuming that isnt the case.

These sound like the go though little bit more lag than stock but capable of heaps more up top with the 2860 -5

and abit more lag than "-5's" with heaps more up top for the 2860 -7's

Just to clarify can I make a bracket change lines to avoid the need to slot the holes? Is there any point avoiding it ie. does it leak or anything if u do?

believe that

-7 is GTSS size

-5 is 2530 size

therefore you'd get more lag from a -5 than -7 but more top end for -5.

PS, byebyev8, big threads on these turbos if you search

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...