Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently a friend of mine recommended i use copper spark plugs - because apparently they are a better conductor . but with the fact that they have to be changed every 5,000 kms. anyway i set my self of to repco to pick these up . got home , set the gap to 0.8 , and installed them . now my friend has the sneaking suspicion that i have the wrong ones , for some unknown reason . preferably because of the model number - and hes worried that they could cause the car to run R & R in heat temperatures and cause misfire .. i havent noticed anything yet , but im worried it could .. eventually on a hot day or something or long driving - which i dont have the time to do ...

the plugs are champions , model no: rc10yx4

has anyone ever had these in there car . i know they are cheapies , but yeah apparently they work better because of the copper , better than the nkg , etc.

any one with any knowledge - please post , much appreciated.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160551-spark-plug-trouble/
Share on other sites

heat rating of 6 is the norm

Well normally on the ngk the heat rating is the number for eg. BKR5IX-11

So heat range 5 gap 1.1mm

But it should be 6 or 7

The best plugs is BKR7E V power ngk. already gapped at 0.8mm

So going by your plug ur heat range is only 4 but not sure with the champs/

Edited by subzeroR33

where did you purchase the $4 copper core ones ? BCPR6ES? .. when i purchased mine the gap was majorly small . left is a adjusted 0.8 . right is how they came .... for those who have many experience with spark plugs , i have another question ! after i installed and gapped to 0.8 , i noticed the car would have a slight bump every 2 -3 mins when warming up on idle .... is this the spark plugs or something else?

The BCPR6ES are the non-vgroove ones.

Also.. shop around you can get them for under $3 a plug. Motortraders/Coventry's (google it for the outlet in your area) do them for under $3, they also stock the BCPR6E plugs which most dont.

Autobarn stock the BKR7E plugs where as most others dont.

---

Yes.. My 7's (BKR7E) used to foul on the pfc's stock water temp enrichment table. I leaned it off quite a bit which stopped it. Car actually drove a fair bit nicer too, not as boggy feeling when stone cold.

I have no need for the 7's so next set I dropped in the usual BCPR6E plugs.

hmmm . when i took the old plugs out the gap was like 1.5 = huge ! - i might call up repco and ask what heat rating they are ... - im quiet annoyed about this , mainly installing them - its a pain in the ass removing everything to get to them

I find the NGK Cheap coppers are good for 20,000km's.

I pull them out and they still look fine but the gap at that point starts to grow.

30,000km's and they are pretty stuffed but still appear to drive fine. All rounded off big gap etc.

300rwkw odd and they will get chewed up a little quicker, depending on your driving style.

But still 20k from a set of plugs worth $17 total for the average line is perfectly fine.

Ripping the plugs out isn't hard nor does it take long when you have the tools sorted for the job.

It shouldn't take longer than 1hr to get a set of plugs in and out providing you have the tools for the job and organise yourself. :)

Last week I put NGk iridium ones in to my car since my one is RB25DE its already gapped to 1.1mm after I installed it next day I saw under the bonnet, sticker shows aprk plug gap should be1.05mm.......... :( damn!!!!!!!! should I change it back 0.05mm? or is it ok to run like this? my car is 1994 R33 GTS4 non turbo............

Cheers

Chinthana

should be ok that difference is so marginal you will not notice any difference, you start noticing a difference like me when you got a turbo and you hit boost and you missfire and then you need to gap them to get rid of it (1.1mm same as urs to 0.8).

I find the NGK Cheap coppers are good for 20,000km's.

I pull them out and they still look fine but the gap at that point starts to grow.

30,000km's and they are pretty stuffed but still appear to drive fine. All rounded off big gap etc.

300rwkw odd and they will get chewed up a little quicker, depending on your driving style.

But still 20k from a set of plugs worth $17 total for the average line is perfectly fine.

Ripping the plugs out isn't hard nor does it take long when you have the tools sorted for the job.

It shouldn't take longer than 1hr to get a set of plugs in and out providing you have the tools for the job and organise yourself. :(

a full set of spark plugs of $17??? reali? thats wot im talking about!!! ;)

So i have a R33 GTST series to and i need to change the spark plugs, what brand / model should i ask for?? So i can just walk into a store in adelaide and say i want this......

cheers!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...