Broken Front Right Swaybar Mount R33 Skyline

[Xander]

Hey Guys,

I have a little problem. My front drivers side swaybar mount on the back of the wheel hub is broken clean off!!!! WFT!!!!!

I have a whiteline blade adjustable swaybar with the heavy duty link kit and the kit is set to the third hole from the end of the swaybar.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I have ran both the blade adjustable front and rear bars for about a year and the Super Low King Springs for about 8 months without any issues...until now. Can this be replaced without having to replace the whole hub? Annyone?!

Nate

[Sydneykid]

Hey Guys,

I have a little problem. My front drivers side swaybar mount on the back of the wheel hub is broken clean off!!!! WFT!!!!!

I have a whiteline blade adjustable swaybar with the heavy duty link kit and the kit is set to the third hole from the end of the swaybar.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I have ran both the blade adjustable front and rear bars for about a year and the Super Low King Springs for about 8 months without any issues...until now. Can this be replaced without having to replace the whole hub? Annyone?!

Nate

Happens occasionally, just weld the bracket back on.

cheers

[Xander]

Happens occasionally, just weld the bracket back on.

cheers

So this is attached to the wheel hub and not a replacable item? So I should be able to just weld it and it will be fine?

[Sydneykid]

So this is attached to the wheel hub and not a replacable item? So I should be able to just weld it and it will be fine?

Yep, I added some gusseting to mine, so it didn’t break again. Being a 100% race car, mine has a 27 mm front bar, spherical joints on the links and relatively soft spring rates, so it loads up the standard brackets a fair bit.

cheers

[Xander]

Yep, I added some gusseting to mine, so it didn’t break again. Being a 100% race car, mine has a 27 mm front bar, spherical joints on the links and relatively soft spring rates, so it loads up the standard brackets a fair bit.

cheers

Thanks for your help. Now I have to hunt down a friend with a welder!

[benl1981]

Quick one,  I’m going to take the bracket off to weld, do you guys know if the brake line can just be unbolted and everything else so the part can be removed for welding? 
 

thanks 

[benl1981]

I.e it looks like that bolt is just making sure the brake line/block is secured/located rather than anything else? 

Edited January 28, 2020 by benl1981

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Yes you can, I used to snap these every few track days.

I suggest running better suspension and reducing the hardness of your ARB. 

I was all in for the super thick, super stiff ARBs but now have both on the softest setting however run much higher spring rates to combat body roll, pitch and also getting much better lap times.

[benl1981]

Thanks for all that. Sounds sensible. 
I might swap back to the stock sway bar for now. 
 

Just had a brake problem, has anyone replaced this bit of hard line. Do I just take it off and get someone to pipe bend up something similar? 
I think the stray sway bar link may have contacted the brake line while it’s been disconnected ..

[GTSBoy]

Yes, a brake shop would make that up in seconds. But your smarter choice would be to buy some braided lines and then you don't need it.

Otherwise, you could probably find one at a wreckers.

[benl1981]

Thanks all are Gktech the best for the price or other options? 
Is the pedal feel worth the $200ish for the braided lines?

managed to weld it up, not the prettiest welds but hopefully should hold. I welded both sides.

[GTSBoy]

Not only is the pedal feel worth whatever you have to pay, but you also get to get rid of 20+ year old rubber lines that are probably unsafe anyway.

But, here's the hot tip.....https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-BRAKE-Lines-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTS-T-GTST/271573448661?hash=item3f3b09f7d5:g:1AEAAOSw-ldZaG1u

The original, and still the best.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

The original, and still the best.

When they're crimped properly lol..

Will PM you some lols

[benl1981]

Oh right. I had a look at those but they didn’t seem to have the same blocks for mounting as the oem and the Gktech. 
To be adr approved don’t they need to have a plastic cover over the braiding?

[GTSBoy]

The do have a plastic sleeve. Your choice of colour, etc etc. And they mount properly - they have the blocks needed.

I'm not recommending against GK-Tech - I use lots of their stuff. But the HEL lines are noticeably cheaper - and up until Dose sent me a picture of one that was very questionable, I had never had cause to doubt their quality. They were the first to offer ADR approved braided lines, after all.

But at least it is possible to tell if they (or any other brand) have been crimped, now that you know to look!

[benl1981]

Thanks for all the tips! 
anyway to tell re. The crimp as I’m now considering the HEL?

[GTSBoy]

You can see and feel if a crimp has or hasn't been done. And if you pull really hard on the ends, they might come off if they're not crimped.

I wouldn't be too worried about such lines not getting crimped. That would have to be an exceedingly rare failure.

[benl1981]

I had a look at a tutorial on the HEL and it doesn’t seem to have those mounting A blocks, which keep the hoses from flapping around. Seems like the gK tech have some benefits..as they are more of a direct fit? 

[GTSBoy]

I dunno what you're talking about. My HEL lines go from the clip on the inner guard, to the clip on the back of the upright, to the clip just before the caliper, and have little rubber bits on the line for the middle ones.

[benl1981]

These bits, maybe the r32 is different