Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK heres where Im at.

DID have 660 CC injectors from USA but they were absolute crud!!. ;) So sending them back.

Decided to tune with stock injectors as I still want bigger injectors but cant afford the good ones (nismo) right now, and dont want to fork out for fuel pressure reg if im not going to need it in the future.

So, ran with the A/F target map and copied the figures out of the booklet that came with it. Bypassed the boost controller so the wastgate actuator runs straight from the manifold. I have a GT30 BTW so didnt want too much boost. Gets 7psi by 3500 and up to 10 by 5000 to the redline.

Did about 6 runs with the logger running and the emanage did a beautiful job of pulling the fuel out to achieve the target AFR's. :D

But now I have had a look at all of the dyno run posts and it looks like everyone is running 11.5 to 12.0 AFR's all the way through.

So im thinking, Im going to plug in 12.0 all over the relevant areas of the AF target map to achieve this.

Made a noticeable difference having the AFR's cleaned up to this point. It did have between 9.8 and 10.2 all the way through originally.

Next step is going to be to fix the 2 big ignition timing dips that I have. I have found that EVERY data log has the EXACT same ignition dips, so shouldnt be too hard to work on.

Heres a pic of my log for a power run that I have just done.

4000 RPM to 6700 RPM.

HMMM have to read up on how to post up a pic and then put it in.

emanage_ultimate.doc

Edited by courier33
  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

But now I have had a look at all of the dyno run posts and it looks like everyone is running 11.5 to 12.0 AFR's all the way through.

So im thinking, Im going to plug in 12.0 all over the relevant areas of the AF target map to achieve this.

Made a noticeable difference having the AFR's cleaned up to this point. It did have between 9.8 and 10.2 all the way through originally.

NOOOO those dyno sheets are from lazy as f**k tuners doing doughy ass tunes.... as it builds boost and load then feed in the fuel do not run any where near 11's or 12's at atomspheric pressure and close to it, think na tune till it starts to come on then build it up to your 11.8 or 12.0 whichever your end AF is up to you.... cats 26 sat at 12.2 all this year with no issues.

^ you know if you have the ign map up above the datalog and click on the dips the cells which correspond to that point on the datalogit actually light up.... so it should take only a few mins to sort out ;)

make note of your peak timing and its map position then as you go down the dip find the differrence in degrees between the peak and then input the differrence between the logged timing and the target timing you want in the map. nice and simple.

i will quickly add some notes to your attachment. the map below is only an example.

post-34927-1197033475_thumb.jpg

Hey I just found that out. Im starting to really like this emanage now that im figuring out how to work it.

Im sitting here with both maps open wondering what the red squares on the maps are ;)

And then it hit me!

F.Y.I.

post-19808-1197033421_thumb.jpg

post-19808-1197034159_thumb.jpg

Edited by courier33
hey trent

just put in my 550 inj but no start any ideas. changed all the settings in the emu

gimme your setup and i will quickly fire something together here for you to upload ;) oh yeah bang me your email.

Ah HA!! Uploaded.

one other thing to note if you have tuned in the airflow meter map you will have changed your timing. The rule is adding fuel decreases timing and decreasing fuel increases timing.... tune as best you can in the inj map and then use rpm vs tps to fine tune tha afm map.

i always leave timing till last, ie take 5 degrees out at the start and then put it to zero once the fuel is right then make sure it is not pinking (pinging if your illiterate ;) ) then do the above datalog hoo-ha

it's [email protected]

the setup is 3076r, 550cc inj, ultimate, fmic, exhaust, pod, splitfire coils.

email done, remmeber to set Jumper 8 to 12v

Your a Champ Trent.

Im pretty sure I understand that bit. ^^

I havent touched the airflow meter map. I selected VG30DETT afm for the Q45 im running and its doing a good job.

So as far as AFM map, 0's everywhere.

OK just read it again and now i think I got ya. Pull 5 degrees out for safety measure in the power areas of the map. ie. bottom r/h half.

Tune the fuel up to whatever A/F Im after.

Then, move the timing back to 0, which is the stock wavy curve timing. + check for pipngin when I do it.

I have only had one very small ping spike on every data log ive done so far.

Im not sure what your talking about with the rpm Vs tps to fine tune the afm map. I figure when I can afford injectors and tune it for them, then ill be able to afford to get the fine tune bit done by someone other than myself.

Hey UCD15R33 I had the 5 cylinder thing going on with mine. Tried 2 sets of the same brand injectors and same results.

I took it for a spin up my road and didnt get far because within 100m i know for sure I had 5 cylinders going.

Tries changing the response times around heaps and no fix. Seemed like @ idle 5 cyl. Under power 6 cyl. Cruise @ 100 5 cyl.

What brand injectors are you using?

When I put the standard ones back in it was fixed. BTW the quality of the injectors was substandard so im putting it down to them.

Edited by courier33
I have only had one very small ping spike on every data log ive done so far.

Cool remmeber with these any spike is ACTUAL knock so just keep an eye on it.

Im not sure what your talking about with the rpm Vs tps to fine tune the afm map. I figure when I can afford injectors and tune it for them, then ill be able to afford to get the fine tune bit done by someone other than myself.

maybe my shop will be opened by then ;) you can run in my new dyno :D

oh as for the afm map change the scale to throttle position instead of afm volts this way it only give full throttle enrichment or cruise adjustment... makes for a nice smooth map as all maps work on top of each other.. ie in some rare cases where i cant stop a flat spot i will use INJ map 2 and change the scale to cover the problem spot (lets say 3500rpm as an example) i will change the rpm scale across the top to start at 3000rpm and end at 4000rpm this then gives me crazy fine tuning as the map will be 16x16 and the rpm will increase from 3000 to 4000 in 50rpm and 100rpm increments.... this whole map adjustment works together with the other INJ map.

maybe my shop will be opened by then you can run in my new dyno

Get it happening and Id be happy to run it in, or out. ;)

Cool remmeber with these any spike is ACTUAL knock so just keep an eye on it.

As far as that goes, I think you mentioned that in a previous post so Im wary of this already.

Either

A. you have done heaps of these tunes and have got it figured out

OR

B. you know how to read Japanese and read the other half of the instruction book

a) mostly self taught but i must admit i do a minimum of 3 a week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...