Jump to content
SAU Community

Are you interested in a custom modified PFC to suit your RB20 and RB25?  

336 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Ok after driving the car for a bit it appears the rb26pfc has resolved one issue but in sorts created another.

With the Rb20 PFC (and 3 others I have tried) I had issues of it going lean under ~1800-2000rpm when making more than a few psi of boost. Basically; leaving a round about in third gear at say 1100rpm, put the foot down, boost starts to climb afr's lean out 2000rpm comes and bang like a switch afr's would return to normal and the car would accelerate off down the road.

Performing a map trace indicated the load points would only drop to 11 and then travel along the x (rpm) axis until 2000rpm where it would drop to 17 odd and then accelerate off. I tried altering the airflow curve, a different afm and as I said a few other RB20 PFC's.

I came to the conclusion that possibly it was boost being blown straight out of the exhaust port due to the low rpm/cam overlap combination.

Appears not the case. The RB26 pfc works 100%, doing the above it now is able to make all its boost under 2000rpm and accelerate without the mixtures going lean causing a hessitation lean missfire.

BUT................

The knock sensitivity.... It appears to be really really dulled down compared to the rb20 pfc.

The Rb20 pfc on the dyno with det cans saw det around the 50knock mark, I was able to hear det on the dyno at around 60ish.

Under full load without det I would see knock levels up to around 30-40ish.

The RB26 PFC. Under cruise it sits on 1-2 under load max holds 7-8. I've heard it detonate at 17ish. So the scaling or sensitivity of the RB26's 8.04a firmware is very very low.

I've noticed from previous plays on the dyno that when it does ping it pings with a quick spike, so as far as I'm concerned any quick spike on the det graph is det; I've seen it spike to 15 and 17.

Apart fromt he small knock readout issue (can be sorted to flash the dash light with anything over 10knock) I'm extremely happy with the rb26 pfc. Especially as it has sorted the under 2000rpm boost = leanout issue. :D

Maybe the Rb26's run a different det sensor????

Knock sensors are 100% perfect.

I dropped the rb20 pfc back in to double check.

It appears to be the 8.04a's RB26 PFC's firmware.. Only some one else with a 8.04a would be able to comment on their knock readings. Maybe their quality control is slipping. :D

Good stuff Tangles.. This is what you've done? Ditched the SAFC? :thumbsup:

No, still have the safc and sitc.

working on getting a r34 pfc, one day hopefully..... but No not as yet. Need to heet the family home first :( we are freeezing !

that info came from Beastien, he recently got 242rwkw out of his S1 Stagea with r34 gtt Pfc

  • 3 weeks later...
There's no need for the datalogit if you were to do this.

There's an option to select between R33 or R32 GTR type o2 sensors via the h/c.

The biggest difference is the wiring. The zirconia o2 sensor has slightly different pinouts so you would have to sort that side of it out. *Check out the circuit diagrams within the R33 and R32 GTR engine manuals*

I've been through every nook and cranny with regards to the circuit diagrams to ensure nothing will blow up. :rant:

BUT..... I believe you can grab R32 GTR NGK/NTK o2 sensors from a sponsor on this forum for a reasonable price. ~$283 for 2 o2 sensors. :S

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135194

ok Sort of reasonable.. lol

ahh, thanks for both those bits of info cubes. I will suss out those $280 a pair sensors. if they are the correct ones that is a good price. the best I've been able to find so far is about $700 a pair! with the HC being able to select between 32GTR and 33 GTR is the 33 GTR sensor titania too, or do they use the more common (and cheap) type of sensor?

however it seems the cheapest way will be to buy the ones you linked. Or if not it may be worthwhile to buy a wideband that can emulate a narrow band and use that instead.

ahh, thanks for both those bits of info cubes. I will suss out those $280 a pair sensors. if they are the correct ones that is a good price. the best I've been able to find so far is about $700 a pair! with the HC being able to select between 32GTR and 33 GTR is the 33 GTR sensor titania too, or do they use the more common (and cheap) type of sensor?

however it seems the cheapest way will be to buy the ones you linked. Or if not it may be worthwhile to buy a wideband that can emulate a narrow band and use that instead.

The R33 GTR's use the more common, cheaper and faster zirconia sensors.

The only issue with that as I said above you will have to alter your o2 sensor wiring a touch.

Hey Guys

Still very keen on getting a power fc and adding a temp sens on my rb20

Is this thread still going and is anyone still going to make a loom so all i have to do is get my tuner to tune it with data fc?

or do i have to make the loom myself??

Crimsonknight,

For those of you with R32's its a 100% go ahead.

Get your RB26 PFC and give Shaun/Troy @ Boostworx a buzz to book the car in.

If you want your 'own' tuner to do the work thats too bad; I won't be telling anyone what needs to be done nor will I be sharing my datalogit dat files so they can go to their own tuner.

The dat files I have pieced together allows the car to run on the base map nicely which results in less tuning time and obviously a better overall tune.

Have your own tuner do this sort of R&D and you'll be up for BIG $$, unless that is they don't charge you R&D.

Its only fair as I used Shauns Datalogit for a full day without charge sorting out the bugs; not once did Shaun expect anything in return.

The least I could do is push a little business back to him and give him the dat files I have settled on and loom mods performed.

Shaun and that Troy feller are top blokes, as I'm sure many of you already know. :)

Crimsonknight,

For those of you with R32's its a 100% go ahead.

Get your RB26 PFC and give Shaun/Troy @ Boostworx a buzz to book the car in.

If you want your 'own' tuner to do the work thats too bad; I won't be telling anyone what needs to be done nor will I be sharing my datalogit dat files so they can go to their own tuner.

The dat files I have pieced together allows the car to run on the base map nicely which results in less tuning time and obviously a better overall tune.

Have your own tuner do this sort of R&D and you'll be up for BIG $$, unless that is they don't charge you R&D.

Its only fair as I used Shauns Datalogit for a full day without charge sorting out the bugs; not once did Shaun expect anything in return.

The least I could do is push a little business back to him and give him the dat files I have settled on and loom mods performed.

Shaun and that Troy feller are top blokes, as I'm sure many of you already know. :)

can vouch 100% for boostworx i drive over 30 mins to get to his workshop Shaun and Troy are only to willing to help people out with out even getting your custom

Crimsonknight,

For those of you with R32's its a 100% go ahead.

Get your RB26 PFC and give Shaun/Troy @ Boostworx a buzz to book the car in.

If you want your 'own' tuner to do the work thats too bad; I won't be telling anyone what needs to be done nor will I be sharing my datalogit dat files so they can go to their own tuner.

The dat files I have pieced together allows the car to run on the base map nicely which results in less tuning time and obviously a better overall tune.

Have your own tuner do this sort of R&D and you'll be up for BIG $$, unless that is they don't charge you R&D.

Its only fair as I used Shauns Datalogit for a full day without charge sorting out the bugs; not once did Shaun expect anything in return.

The least I could do is push a little business back to him and give him the dat files I have settled on and loom mods performed.

Shaun and that Troy feller are top blokes, as I'm sure many of you already know. :D

Hey Cubes

I would love too support Boostworx but the cost driving to south australia from sydney is too great for a power fc

so if i could pay them or you for the adaptor/data so the boys at Autosport can tune it that would be Fantastic!!

thanks Man

  • 1 month later...

I want to convert the RB26 D Jetro Powerfc to work with this mod.

Can anyone give any input?

Is the wiring on the plug any different? If its a D-Jetro, you won't have to stuff around with air flow curves I have realised...

do you still have the loom you got from me or did you sell it?

the djetro wire in diagram shows you splice it into cly 3 and 4 but that seems odd, placement sounds but not sure where the map sensor signal goes

also you would i guess place the two map sensor next to each other, sounds like the GTR had two to try and balance the pressure out on the intake

i wonder if the GTIR has two or one map sensor

do you still have the loom you got from me or did you sell it?

the djetro wire in diagram shows you splice it into cly 3 and 4 but that seems odd, placement sounds but not sure where the map sensor signal goes

also you would i guess place the two map sensor next to each other, sounds like the GTR had two to try and balance the pressure out on the intake

i wonder if the GTIR has two or one map sensor

Few good points.

The GTR runs 2 x map sensors. I wonder if you can do the same as the AFMS - Splice both AFMs together and simply hook up one map sensor?

Or go the easy way out and just get to Map sensors and run two. That means no shanging of the wires. Everything else is easy, Cut the 02 Sensor wires, and get a Air Temp sensor wired in?

Surely the rest is the same? I'd assume since the D-Jetro was designed to use the factory wiring it will just have map sensors on the MAF wires instead of mafs, but everything is is the same.

That wiring thing about cylinder 3 and 4 is weird, but maybe the map sensors need some kind of trigger to understand Engine RPM for something?

Are there instructions for installing one? Keen to see some.

Joely, were is your input lol.

ahhh I see, the wiring will be exactly the same as the Maf Rb26 -> RB20 or 25 version, but instead of splicing the AFMS together, you just cut the AFMs completely and hook dual MAP sensors up.

As says the picture from Your FAQ paul - http://paulr33.sauvic.com.au/docs/powerfc-...tro-harness.jpg

This will be easy.

Going to order a D-Jetro Tonight and extra adapter loom.

Hooking this up to a RB20 with a HKS 3037proS. The owner wants to tune it, and then install the RB30 when its completed he has sitting on his engine stand.

:happy:

Looking forward to this project.

No more f**king around with Airflow curves, and Maf settings, as MAP sensors are universal on all cars as they only read pressure, regardless of pipe size, etc.

If I can get a RB25 D-Jetro I think I'll swap it with my standard RB25 Powerfc. Just so I can remove the AFM. If I can't get a standard Powerfc I'll use a RB26 one and a adapter loom.

Edited by The Mafia

I have the full RB26 DJETRO manual at home. I can scan it for you paul.

basically the map sensor nipples are inserted into cylinders 3 and 4 of the throttle bridge for the 26. then their loom runs to the side port on the PFC, and also splices into the ecu harness (I assume into the two AFM signal wires).

I don't know how much better or worse PFC DJETRO is than the LJETRO. like paul said once you are at target boost the maps output just hold a flat line even though the acutal volume of air going in will increase. so I guess more reliance is placed on RPM axis and maybe TPS etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...