Rb26 Pfc Working On Rb20/rb25

[paulr33]

Ah I read that last night. Must have been half asleep.

I think the easiest way for the GTS-T is to bridge to two - cause that's how the Standard R33 Powerfc is naturally anyway. I tested mine at idle, and it was running 14.2 volts to a good ground (most likely 13.8 at its own ground)

So if we bridge the two outputs, then its does exactly what the normal FC does, and simply runs the pump flat out all day every day.

I think they do this with the GTR to prevent the pump being as loud as f**k all the time, especially when at idle.

It's a shame we can't run the lower voltage at idle for quietness, as I don't want anyones mum complaining when I have the car running and her in the back seat. (car running for the aircon)

[paulr33]

Bridging them won't hurt anything, as they are simply 12volt outputs.

Ie: They output the same voltage. All they do is activate 2 different relays.

The first relay or output activates a circuit that delivers the pump 11 volts.

The second relay or output activates a circuit that delivers the pump 13 volts.

Since the R33 GTS-T doesn't have these two "circuts" in the boot like the GTR it wouldn't matter. It would see the combined voltage of the two outputs triggers, and simply turn the fuel pump on, and leave it on.

Because The First output turns off, and then the second one on after it, since they are bridged the relay in the boot only sees a constant "stay on" signal.

I'm sure Cubes would agree with all of this.

Where is he lol

[paulr33]

Also, if you were REALLY worried and didn't believe me - attach a diode to each of the outputs on the ECU and THEN bridge them after the diodes.

Then the volts can't go back into the FC (even though they won't aas the FC with have Diodes and relays inside anyway to prevent this, and for normal operation)

When I mean the volts can't go back into the powerfc, I mean if one output shuts down, and the other powers up, then if bridged it can't go from one active output into a non active output. They are outputs anyway

- There will be a relay operating inside, and if the relay is off, then the volts can't go anywhere

Hnmmmmmm Cubes must have my mum out on a date or something.

[The Mafia]

  paulr33 said:

Ah I read that last night. Must have been half asleep.

I think the easiest way for the GTS-T is to bridge to two - cause that's how the Standard R33 Powerfc is naturally anyway. I tested mine at idle, and it was running 14.2 volts to a good ground (most likely 13.8 at its own ground)

So if we bridge the two outputs, then its does exactly what the normal FC does, and simply runs the pump flat out all day every day.

I think they do this with the GTR to prevent the pump being as loud as f**k all the time, especially when at idle.

It's a shame we can't run the lower voltage at idle for quietness, as I don't want anyones mum complaining when I have the car running and her in the back seat. (car running for the aircon)

  paulr33 said:

Bridging them won't hurt anything, as they are simply 12volt outputs.

Ie: They output the same voltage. All they do is activate 2 different relays.

The first relay or output activates a circuit that delivers the pump 11 volts.

The second relay or output activates a circuit that delivers the pump 13 volts.

Since the R33 GTS-T doesn't have these two "circuts" in the boot like the GTR it wouldn't matter. It would see the combined voltage of the two outputs triggers, and simply turn the fuel pump on, and leave it on.

Because The First output turns off, and then the second one on after it, since they are bridged the relay in the boot only sees a constant "stay on" signal.

I'm sure Cubes would agree with all of this.

Where is he lol

  paulr33 said:

Also, if you were REALLY worried and didn't believe me - attach a diode to each of the outputs on the ECU and THEN bridge them after the diodes.

Then the volts can't go back into the FC (even though they won't aas the FC with have Diodes and relays inside anyway to prevent this, and for normal operation)

When I mean the volts can't go back into the powerfc, I mean if one output shuts down, and the other powers up, then if bridged it can't go from one active output into a non active output. They are outputs anyway

- There will be a relay operating inside, and if the relay is off, then the volts can't go anywhere

Hnmmmmmm Cubes must have my mum out on a date or something.

lol they are my emails to paul this morning

[The Mafia]

can someone move this thread back to FI please?

[KURAUN]

  Interloper said:

Hey Nick, hows the car running?

are you able to get good economy out of it?

Hmmm not at the moment having a bit to much fun driving it, but saying that only bout a 50km diff with all the mods.

PM use your number an next time im going to my beachouse ill give u a buzz, well catch up

[The Mafia]

just letting everyone know that I was successful in getting my GTR Powerfc to work in my RB25. I even gave it a bit of a tune. This means it will work 100% for the RB20.

Its up for sale too by the way so if you're interested, just let me know. Even if you want it just for a R32 \ R33 GTR.

[paulr33]

well done, congrats on getting it working

[Pauly33GTS-t]

so where does it go from here Paul, now that it is confirmed that it can work.

[MADGT4]

  Pauly33GTS-t said:

so where does it go from here Paul, now that it is confirmed that it can work.

x2

Im after an RB20.....

I must say amazing work on adapting it for the Rb20 and 25's!

[rad100]

x3 for rb20 pfc!!!

[Cubes]

I'll have my rb26 from nengun within a week or two. Its taken ~8weeks for delivery. :S

I'll be doing internal wiring mods so its a simple plug in.

I 'might' do a few for others that are in SA. Boostworkx have a datalogit that is required so tuning will be done there.

[sky30]

might be interested joel, how much?

[The Mafia]

well, as I said up there - I have a perfectly good PowerFC to suit a R33\R32 GTR that I thought was a pro, and isn't.

Works perfectly, as I have been using it in my car and driving around with a light tune lol.

Its also configured to work also, and if you give me a heads up, I can load your data into it before I send it so that you can plug it in and drive to your tuner with it

Just let me know everyone - I'll post a for sale thread at some stage.

Oh, and Its ready to go into an overnight bag, so you'd get it really fast

[paulr33]

might be an idea to ask boomslang.us how much to copy the modified loom you have

so people can buy a RB26 to RB25/RB20 loom adapter so they can use 26 FCs on their 20/25

[Cubes]

  sky30 said:

might be interested joel, how much?

Let me get mine done first, order from nengun has taken 8 weeks so far.

Fingers crossed I receive it next week.

Good thing with it being the 26fc is we can utilize your rb26 inlet air temp sensor.

[Crimsonknight]

Hey Guys

Can you plz let me know if you end up being able to manifacture the loom for to buy and how much??

I'm very keen!!

thanks

[grandmasterb]

Mafia will your PFC suit RB20 and if so how much???

[The Mafia]

well, the Powerfc and hand controller cost me $1100, and the loom $50

so $1150 plus post and its all yours \ anybody's I just want to get my money back.

but just remember, you need a tuner with a Datalogit or they won't be able to do it! I just spoke to cubes and I won't be able to do it from here unless I have a RB20. (I have a RB25)

If you have a RB25, thats another story. Mine *should* work and start - but I still recommend having someone with a datalogit near.

Its running my car right now though, and I will be driving to work with it tomorrow lol.

Edited June 4, 2007 by The Mafia

[siddr20]

Mafia, so you got a rb26 pfc in yours now?

Let us know the progress/stats of how your drive goes tomorrow.