Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so the xenon's on a series 2 are H4 or the H7? and i suppose instead of the oven a heat gun will suffice?

I'm pretty sure it's H1 as MANWHORE's reply to my Q on page 2 implied, unless he didn't answer it respectively.

there was a third series for GTR's, not sure if it was across the range, probably not.

But there were S3 R33 GTR's, factory standard Xenons, red stitching on the inside, and some other changes that i never remember.

I'm pretty sure it's H1 as MANWHORE's reply to my Q on page 2 implied, unless he didn't answer it respectively.

damn.. super cheap auto tells me its the H7 and i bought a pair.. can anyone else confirm for sure?

the thing is, there isn't really another direction that's all :pirate: Without retro fitting projectors. So OEM or projectors. They're the good options.

Look, to be honest, if you're just doing 99% city driving, and you're willing to point your headlighs down a little, you could get away with an a/m HID kit.

They're not the best option, but for just city driving you'll be ok. Seriously, a lot of ppl these days are just driving with the foggies on and when you think about the amount of street lighting, and lights from other cars, you can get away with it.

Some people don't really care for the finer details of this all, fair enough, that's cool. Despite being glary, it's hard to argue that they don't look pretty shmick. And as with most modifications to our cars, there is some law, somewhere, saying not to do it.

If you're not fussed, go for it. As OEM for R34 is easily $850+, more the $900's. I've been looking at the yahoo auctions quite closely, and you just don't seem to be able to land anything for less than $850.

You can do the retro fit if you're handy with those sorts of things. But you'll still have to buy some projectors, and then buy a HID kit, with the D2r types globes, etc. Still looking at roughly $500 for those parts, and you still have to put it together.

So yeah, choice is yours really. This issue comes up more with R34 Xenon owners, as our healight assemblies were designed for another bulb. Now, i'm not saying R33 and R32 lighting is brilliant, but at least everything is as it should be.

cheers,

daniel

damn.. super cheap auto tells me its the H7 and i bought a pair.. can anyone else confirm for sure?

Unless yours have been converted that's most likely incorrect.

Series 1 R32: H3 (high) and H3C (low)

Series 2 R32: H3 (high) and H1 (low)

there's series 2 r32? sure u meant r33 for the stuff u just said?

Yeah I meant R32. Series 1 R32s were made from May 89 - August 91, and Series 2 from August 91 - August 93. One way to check is the colour of your dash, series 1 R32s have a blue dash, series 2 have a black dash (applies to GTST, not sure about GTR).

Bulbs did not change in the R33 range (except in the series 3 GTRs which had xenons as previously indicated).

the thing is, there isn't really another direction that's all :pirate: Without retro fitting projectors. So OEM or projectors. They're the good options.

Look, to be honest, if you're just doing 99% city driving, and you're willing to point your headlighs down a little, you could get away with an a/m HID kit.

They're not the best option, but for just city driving you'll be ok. Seriously, a lot of ppl these days are just driving with the foggies on and when you think about the amount of street lighting, and lights from other cars, you can get away with it.

hey there mate.. which are projector style xenons? which car maker uses them? honda and lexus? those 2 are cars that i've seen headlights that I thought was difference from the R34s..

cheers

from factory?

BMW

Audi

Mercedes

Nissan (new 350z)

Honda

Lexus

Lambo

Ferrari

Porsche

Holden (on the top of the line, new models, only took about 500 years for them to catch up)

Aston Martin..

Mazda RX8

etc, etc... you get the idea. It's more a luxury item at this stage.

Volvo have reflector Xenons, like the R34's. And i think Lexus's first Xenons were done in reflector assemblies as well. Now-a-days, very FEW manufactures make Xenons which DON'T use projectors.

Lots of manufacturers use and have used for a while, projectors, it's just that some cars get Xenon globes in the projectors as oppose to normal halogens. A lot of cars on the road have projectors, but aren't Xenon.

But if you want to do a retro-fit, you don't have to buy spare parts from a car manufacture. Hella/Bosch, etc, make projectors. And i would imagine most car companies would use projectors made by those big companies.

the HIDplanet forums are really the BEST place to check up on all this.

  • 2 weeks later...
hey ali,

The link that gohan posted up is spot on the money. It is the only 'Real' and 'proper' way of doing things.

r32 headlights are renouned for being the crappest lights ever. If you don't want to go the retrofit option, the best light you can get is probably a set of plus 50 bulbs, relayed so that they get the full 13.8 volts (instead of the 10-11 volts they usually get).

Hi um ive been going mad looking for the thread to relay the headlights, does anyone know where its at? I'm sure ive seen it once before but just cant find it.

Thanks

  • 3 months later...

i was try to do retro on my R34... but i dont think i cant do it...

might i screw all up... i try to find OEM xenon... but i cant find them..

anyone know where i can find? i must import from japan right?

if anyone did it.. can i please have the pictures?

cheers

paul

I had 8000k HIDS my car,they were in for 2 weeks then got defected,pulled them out and sold them on ebay.To much glare in reflector style headlights like R33s.Only suited to projector ones IMO.

no-one really answered this but you can get oem zenon headlight for r33 series 2's. they were only avaliable in the late series 2 models, i had some on the shell i just bought but they were f*ked so i cant use them, got a quote on brand new ones and they are $1300ish each light, and good luck finiding them second hand probably anyone whos got em dun know, and if they doo i wouldnt ever be selling them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...