Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I accelerate as normal.......... hits 3000rpm and starts to boost a little, then it sounds like a hair dryer in the bloody engine bay!

It just sounds like its blowing!

And the car is very sluggish on boost....

Now my first thought was boost leak.... checked it all over and it seems to be fine.... all hoses attached and the blowing is so loud that it wouldn't be a tiny split or hole in the hosing...

So I thought maybe the bov (trust plumback) had farked up.

Just changed it over and still the same problem.

I did however notice a fair bit of oil inside the bov.

So now I am stuck for ideas!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16204-please-help-problem-with-my-skyline/
Share on other sites

you shouldnt loose that much power

but sounds more like a leak than a breakage. check for moisture around any of the exhaust gasket areas, make sure no intercooler pipes have blown off and that theres no boost leaks (which youve already done)

is it definately an air-rushing sound and not a mechanical sound? that would be the decider!

  • 1 month later...
Originally posted by DREMEN

They reckon that its not the stud...... the guy said he has only ever seen 3 skylines with all studs intact :)

So now I have it booked in to have a smoke test done....

There has to be a boost leak somewhere but I just can't find it :)

I want my baby fixed :(:(

Sorry for dredging up slightly dead topics but my R33 has a broken exhaust manifold stud as well.

Did they give you a price on fixing it? Ive been told $1000. But i brush that off as them taking me for a sucker, they said they wanted to "do them all at the same time" which i took to mean "we want to take all your money at the same time".

Im a bit interested to know that this is a common skyline problem. Has anyone ever fixed this before?

They would have been right dude. If you have broken one off, which means you have the bolt stuck in the thread of the block, then it has to be drilled out and re-tapped. Tricky and time consuming hence costing money, and ya guaranteed to snap at least another getting them off. Ya gotta remember also to get the manifold off, you need to remove all the intake piping, the turbo, the manifold etc. then ya gotta take the block out... not a small job.

Originally posted by YBSLO4

They would have been right dude. If you have broken one off, which means you have the bolt stuck in the thread of the block, then it has to be drilled out and re-tapped. Tricky and time consuming hence costing money, and ya guaranteed to snap at least another getting them off. Ya gotta remember also to get the manifold off, you need to remove all the intake piping, the turbo, the manifold etc. then ya gotta take the block out... not a small job.

Thanks. Yeah, thinking about it, there is a lot of labour.

Does a broken stud mean it will be leaking exhaust gases? Perhaps not since im only running stock boost. I dont hear any leak noises or feel any power loss, but its always been broken so i may not notice it.

With the manifold removed you should be able to get at the studs with a drill and easyout without taking the engine out. If I had to drill them right out I would use inserts rather than just retap the holes to a larger size. None of mine have broken yet, do you guys use a torque wrench??

DREMEN

Do yo get a boost reading on your boost gauge?

Check that the top half of your inlet is bolted down properly

I had a boost leak from there once.

also with the broken exhaust stud I also have one broken but not leaking (broken before I got the car) and I've been running 14 psi for about 2 years now.

Regards

Damqik

abroken stud wont cause an exhaust leak unless you have some seriously big exhaust flow. You gotta remember there is two studs for each outlet so there is a small chance of it being able to leak as there is still one bolt holding that onlet in place, as well as the strength through the other 10 bolts on the othre 5 exhaust outlets. I have a broken stud on mine it broke last week when fitting my turbo and is the reason why after i took that one off (luckily was first bolt closest to radiator) that i changed plans and removed the turbo without taking off the manifold. Be careful with them, they come out easy but once you bolt them back in they are rediculous, they snap before you even get an load on the bolt. Definately replace them if you ever take them out.

I drove my R32 over a gate magnet on an industrial driveway and ruptured my engine to manifold, manifold to turbo gaskets and 2 other smaller gaskets down the exhaust line...

I took it to an exhaust shop and was quoted over a grand to fix it because of the labour involved... I said shove your grand up your azz!

I have 2 good mates from Cyber Motorsports int and they have access to full workshops, therefore, we spent a weekend (about 24 hrs total) removing my turbo and all ancillary stuff, refitting new gaskets and putting it all back together after a general clean up etc.

Gaskets can be bought from Nissan Aust in Brisbane, at about $106 for the engine to manifold, and $30 ish for the other 2 (manif>turbo and turbo>dump) so $180 ish for all 3 (not bad really).

You need an air drill to drill in the middle of the studs (I had 5 broken off in the head) and the easy out is a must. I was extreemly lucky that all my studs came out in one piece otherwise the head comes off and "rebuild" enters the equation.(nasty $$$)

I must say that I thoroughly enjoyed the experience as I now know exactky what goes on under there (respect maybe, but I still thrash it).

PM me for any finer details as I know everything first hand.

The help I had made it all possible, so make some friends with workshop connections and it will be all good!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
    • Run it in open loop for now, and drop the frequency down. This lowers the resolution and requires more duty cycle to do anything, however good to troubleshoot.
    • According to Josh, one of our local Americans, it seems the USA still can't get turbo systems quite right at a lot of places, so possible that they're not running great at all, but they've just not complained as NFI about getting it right...
×
×
  • Create New...