Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I just got myself a SERIES TWO R33... and its my 1st turbo car. I'm thinking of getting it up to about 220kw at the wheels.

Can anyone tell me the best way to go about doing this?

Im not sure what cooler to get and what boost control.

I was told by someone to get the GREDDY SPEC M INTERCOOLER KIT and a HKS EVC boost control.

If anyone can help me or direct me in the right direction that would be great.

THANKS HEAPS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162377-need-help-getting-my-r33-to-220kw/
Share on other sites

To get a genuine 220rwkw you need a larger turbo. The stock one will never make it unless you have someone fudge the result, which is probably the cheapest option for bragging rights

Other than that, read the sticky threads.

I purchased my 33 with the following mods. largish front mount, Turbo back zorst with hiflow cat. pod intake. bleed valve, boost at 9/10 lb. safc2. The car makes around the 180 rwkw at those specs and i am now about to embark on my first round of mods. Stage 3 hiflow, 550cc injectors. better fuel pump. Aftermarket ecu, boost at 18 lb.

Too many peeps too eager to tell me that the setup can make 250 plus. I personally have my doubts unless the dyno numbers are fudged. I am expecting a genuine reading in the 220/230 range. Any more will be a bonus.

Will let you know where it ends up.

God! really? so i need to get a bigger turbo to get my car up to 220kw :D DAMN.....

Anyone in Melbourne know a good workshop to get it all done? Also whats a good cooler and boost control? And what turbo should i go for?

stupid.gif

dude hi flow option probly the cheap and the best bang for your bux would be the sliding hi flow stage 3, and EBC choose what ever you want becuase they are all round about the same price. you have the option of Blitz, greaddy, HKS. intercooler well for the power you want even a hybrid would do the job for ya

Check my sig.... Slide Highflow FTW! And I am not even running full boost till I get the computer system in...

Boost controller is a matter of preference.. I love the G-reddy E-01 in my car... doesn't spike and is completely stable.. On the other hand my other car has an E-boost2 - also stable and extremely easy to use.... do some research ..ultimately your the one that has to look at it every day.

www.slidingperformance.com hiflows. get it ordered.

otherwise do what i did to get some more power, spend a good 2,300 and get a Garrett GT3076R fitted. As long as you got a FMIC, form of boost control, and a turbo back exhaust u should be right.

Hi again guys... MAN im sooo confused... This is my 1st turbo car and i dont know much about them....

what things should i be looking 4 when im getting a turbo timer?

Besides looks are they all the same?

You dont need a turbo timer

waste of money

I use mine to leave the air con on without the keys when I duck into the pizza shop for my order................lol. Park it out front where you can see it, set the timer to 9 minutes, take the key out, lock it up and walk in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I actually had the cover off my car today, here is a (bad) pic of the setup. I have an oil cooler thermostat block, the temp sender is straight in there. The pressure sender has a short AN line to a T piece which is mounted (hopefully cable tied counts as mounted....) on the chassis. BTW every fitting you could ever imagine exists....just depends what they cost and how many you need. Raceworx AN adapters are here: https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/, I think you said you need BSPT to AN (https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/bsp/tapered/an-to-bspt-adapters/) and AN to NPT (https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/npt/) BTW, braided line is super simple to make. It looks intimidating, is not.
    • Perfect day for a pie, really needs a soft top in this weather though
    • Prime parking, she is a little girl...LOL
    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
×
×
  • Create New...