Jump to content
SAU Community

sk's whiteline suspension kit.

Cubes

By Cubes,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
i think the sk group buy on springs and shocks allows you to use standard height on whiteline springs via circlip adjustment.

I've looked in to that. They still sit at around 350mm from memory which is too low. Well its not but it is to mr police officer.

You can have another groove placed in it but 'apparently' the springs become a little noisy due to the lack of compression or something.

Not sure. Bl4ck32 is soon to do it so that will be the deciding factor.

The whiteline shocks/springs from whiteline them selves handle really well with the stock sway bars on the r32's.

Unsure how sk's setup works but bl4ck32's sits really nice, neutral balanced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162556-sks-whiteline-suspension-kit/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Even though difficult to compare the 33 to the 32.

How do you find the car is balanced? Understeer or over?

The way it is now the front never pushes, it will always start stepping out the rear slowly and predictably. :S

Did you go sway bars as well?

I'll move this shit in to another thread.

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
Posted (edited)
Even though difficult to compare the 33 to the 32.

How do you find the car is balanced? Understeer or over?

The way it is now the front never pushes, it will always start stepping out the rear slowly and predictably. :S

Did you go sway bars as well?

I'll move this shit in to another thread.

haha, yeah, i was thinking we were going a bit offtopic. it has a nice firm feel to it but without being too harsh on the bumps. i previously had jap branded coilovers that were ok when on a flat surface, but i dreaded bumpy roads. the front end feels like it grips much better on uneven sweeping corners now.

i got the adjustable swaybars too, ive set the front to medium and the rear to hard, which gives a more oversteer feel, i played with settings a bit, but thats the one i like the most. i also installed front and rear strut braces, hicas bar, subframe locks, front camber kit and most of the old bushes replaced.

ps, just looking at your avatar pic, your 32 looks pretty low, is that stock height?

Edited by Sambo33
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

ill be machining a groove to suit the legal std height in the bilsteins i have in the car now. If the springs in there now wont suit, ive got a set of std height springs i will be slapping in anyway to take up the slack.

Edited by Bl4cK32
Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can use standard springs with the Sydneykid shocks, the standard groove gives you the standard height. I recently PMed Sydneykid as i need new shocks and want to upgrade the handling a bit.

My goals were

1 - replace shocks

2 - improve handling

3 - not scrub tyres

4 - spend no more than $1500

His advice was to get the shocks as stage 1 and then swaybars and a castor kit as stage 2. I was origionally looking to get springs aswell but now i think i'll follow his advice.

All this was for a R33 gtst but i'm guessing it's the same across the board, pretty much anyway.

Edited by Race__24
Fishpaste~ Experienced

Fishpaste~

Posted
Posted

Just off of the phone with regency, supposidly the legal/std height for an r32 gtr is 365 for the frount and 355 for the rear. does this sound right to anyone? i heard regency height is more like 372 or 375... anyone able to confirm etc? or should i just take random guy @ regencys word for it? (i might have to do my suspension in the next couple of weeks to get the car past regency, looking at using sk's kit)

thanks

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

Ive got the SK kit; shocks, swaybars, pinepples, front castor.

using standard Stagea springs.

ride is awesome quality. very very nice. IMO lowred aftermarket spings arnt a neccesity with the Bilstein shocks and circlips

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
everytime ive been thru regency, they have never checked eybrow to centre distance. If the slide thing clears everythin under the car, then ur pretty much ok.

What im saying, is a few mm, ie 10mm shouldnt bother them.

hate to burst your bubble, but i was defected (and still are) for 5mm too low on the rear and 10mm on the front. It states it on the defect form, so they will be checking when i go through. Ive had them pull out the tape in the past as well.

Edited by Bl4cK32
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
there is no bubble. im just sharing my opinion. Obviously I have had less anal inspectors then u....

Grammar police says u should word it better then :wave:

If the slide thing clears everythin under the car, then ur pretty much ok.

What im saying, is a few mm, ie 10mm shouldnt bother them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...