Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

This probably sounds stupid but how exactly tell the difference between a series one and series two R33 just by looking at it. And is there a difference in performance between the two?

Thanks,

Sammy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163075-how-to-tell-if-r33-is-s1-or-s2/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

This probably sounds stupid but how exactly tell the difference between a series one and series two R33 just by looking at it. And is there a difference in performance between the two?

Thanks,

Sammy.

A series 2 from the front the Bonnet/ Grill is different, The headlights are a different shape and the front bar has those round fog lights and indicators in it. A series one has that funny grill with emblem on it and less angualr lights

From the rear the series one has that low rounded wing whereas the series 2 has a higher squared off wing

No difference in performance

PS prepare for heaps of people to tell you to search

There is little or no difference in performance between S1 and S2 (other than the wear and tear resulting from the fact that S1's have typically seen a few more years of service).

From memory, these are the main differences...

Interior:

Updated trim

Updated instrument panel

Passenger airbag

Exterior:

Round indicators and foglights

Sharper bonnet lines, grill and headlights

Chrome backing on headlights

Chrome 'S' Skyline symbol on bonnet

Color coded 'Skyline' trim under boot

Titanium coloured boot lock

Squarish rear spoiler

Mechanical:

Updated ECU

Nylon intake wheel on turbo

Updated ignition system

Different CAS for post Sept 97 models

There is a thread somewhere on the forum which has a detailed list of all the differences between S1 and S2 - do a search.

post up the interrior pic, pic of the gear shiift surroud and the dash surround

i think series 1 have the coin slot on the dash

series 2 have the coin slot on the gear shift surround

at least I think thats how it goes

you dont have a S2 unfortunatly, its a S1/.5

S2 are 96-98 models S1 are 93-95

Ummm no. u are wrong... very wrong, mine is a 95 series 2.. November build...

stick that up there.:)

OK so what series is this one...?

Yrs is a so called 1.5 dude

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...