Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

This probably sounds stupid but how exactly tell the difference between a series one and series two R33 just by looking at it. And is there a difference in performance between the two?

Thanks,

Sammy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163075-how-to-tell-if-r33-is-s1-or-s2/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

This probably sounds stupid but how exactly tell the difference between a series one and series two R33 just by looking at it. And is there a difference in performance between the two?

Thanks,

Sammy.

A series 2 from the front the Bonnet/ Grill is different, The headlights are a different shape and the front bar has those round fog lights and indicators in it. A series one has that funny grill with emblem on it and less angualr lights

From the rear the series one has that low rounded wing whereas the series 2 has a higher squared off wing

No difference in performance

PS prepare for heaps of people to tell you to search

There is little or no difference in performance between S1 and S2 (other than the wear and tear resulting from the fact that S1's have typically seen a few more years of service).

From memory, these are the main differences...

Interior:

Updated trim

Updated instrument panel

Passenger airbag

Exterior:

Round indicators and foglights

Sharper bonnet lines, grill and headlights

Chrome backing on headlights

Chrome 'S' Skyline symbol on bonnet

Color coded 'Skyline' trim under boot

Titanium coloured boot lock

Squarish rear spoiler

Mechanical:

Updated ECU

Nylon intake wheel on turbo

Updated ignition system

Different CAS for post Sept 97 models

There is a thread somewhere on the forum which has a detailed list of all the differences between S1 and S2 - do a search.

post up the interrior pic, pic of the gear shiift surroud and the dash surround

i think series 1 have the coin slot on the dash

series 2 have the coin slot on the gear shift surround

at least I think thats how it goes

you dont have a S2 unfortunatly, its a S1/.5

S2 are 96-98 models S1 are 93-95

Ummm no. u are wrong... very wrong, mine is a 95 series 2.. November build...

stick that up there.:)

OK so what series is this one...?

Yrs is a so called 1.5 dude

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...