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how fare out is the water line??? also have you tried to fit the water line before bolting the turbo to the manifold, sounds strange but it was the only way i could get the stock rb25 turbo on my rb20 without modifing water lines

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ive installed a few of these on a few members cars.

the trick i use is to not bolt the turbo on at all, get all the water lines on first. i loosen the dump/front pipe off its bracket under the car so i have movement and bolt it up to that loosely to that with 2 bolts as well as have it sitting on the oil return to keep it stable. it makes it a tiny bit stiffer to move into place but it saves at least 30-45mins of stuffing around with the bolts.

if a banjo fitting wont line up, use a long flat head screw driver to adjust it a bit by sticking it through the middle and levering it into shape.

Save yourself the trouble go braided lines and speedflow fittings this will save you a hell of a trouble if you plan on upgrading in near future, as well as it would be safe to loosen the bolts to move the housings around just make sure you do them up to the right tightness and oh if your putting the turbo on atleast save yourself the trouble mount the lines on the turbo first it will be easier to bolt it back up after. Good luck with it. Oh and one thing if you have doubt in warranty voidence consult aaron first about the issues, if you still have doubt get a professional to do it for you!

Oh and one last thing i dont take responsibility if you stuff something up in the process if you follow the above comment :wave:

Have a good easter

A

Take it to a mechanic. I am all for DIY, but this sort of stuff shouldnt be causing you headaches. Its all basic stuff. Take it to a professional. It will only be 3-4hrs labour, plus some coolant and oil.

Who are you going to use to tune the car? Just take it to them

Hate to see you with a blown turbo in 2 weeks time

sounds to me like you should be getting someone who has a clue to install it

if i didnt know what i was doing, i certainly woudlnt be risking it to save a few piddly dollars

my car means too much to me to do that

Hey matey, care to elaborate more on what the issue was, and how you fixed it (for when mine comes).

I've done many turbos before, just wondering specifically in relation to the slide one.

did you have to rotate the housings? etc etc - or what was the problem - did you have the problem with the water line that the guys were talking about etc.

All I did was unbolt all close supports to the waterlines and gently bent them into place. To get any flutter you have to block off the BOV. It is noticeably louder on the induction side, no difference to the exhaust note. My experiences with the slide turbo anyway.

On a stockish PFC map the turbo is dreadfully laggy (obviously) but still hits boost hard. defiantly needs a tune ASAP.

my car isnt tuned to this new setup. it is laggy but its not tuned, boost comes on at 2800. i havent pushed it past 3,500rpm cause its not tuned. in order to put it on we had to adjust/rotated the front and rear housings. we had to do this 6 times to get it spot on. the water lines closest to the strut tower was a problem so i had to do up all the lines first then put the turbz on the manifold last. the turbo sounds very nice regardless. when something isnt standard its difficult to "fit straight in" in most cases.

im just happy my car is back on the road :sick: the flutter is very quick and not very loud, but you can hear it nicely. (grins)As soon as i hit over 3500 rpm the bov works normal and gives me the psssh noise. as i said, just happy to have my car back :D

Edited by R33GOD
To get any flutter you have to block off the BOV. It is noticeably louder on the induction side, no difference to the exhaust note. My experiences with the slide turbo anyway.

:D:/ and :no:

With my hi-flow and HKS GT-RS, i always got flutter under 4000rpm, and i hated it, no matter what i did to get rid of it, it wouldn't go away.

Also my induction got alot quieter with the turbo change (i put it down to the std turbo being very restrictive) and the exhaust note got deeper in my car and my mate's car.

i didnt purchase the max over size hiflow and im finding it quite good. its abit laggy due to the car not being tuned. plus my gain was turned right down, running stock boost at the moment. oh yea..did i mention it flutters MAD!!!! LOL.

Al, correct me if i'm wrong, but i remember seeing before that you absolutely hated your vg30 highflow and sold it off for cheap wasn't it. I think you found it very laggy?
Didn't "hate" it just was disappointed with its lag and how it came on boost, also had compressor surge (Hated the flutter).

After buying the HKS GT-RS, the lag wasn't that much better (but still a little improvement), so I started looking at other things that could cause the issue, and I found my "hi-flowed" custom made exhaust to be a big part of the issue. Below is a graph of a comparison between the custom exhaust and an Apexi 3.5" exhaust.

post-1811-1175912845.jpg post-1811-1175912861.jpg

The result was absolutely GREAT!!

I was then about to replace my "truck core" fmic, which I had in the car for the past 6yrs, thinking that; if a change in an exhaust could make such a difference, the same principal would apply to a sub-standard fmic. But months later, b4 doing the test/comparison, I lost compression on cyl 3 at a track day. So now I am building up a completely new engine with new turbo/ fmic/etc; this will void any comparison with the previous setup.

Apart from the compressor surge (flutter while accelerating), I now realise that the rb25 hi-flow, with the VG30 ext housing, was a good turbo and made heaps of power: 270rwkw @ 16psi (R33 rb25 engine had Tomei cams and head porting). The turbo is now in a R34 with a completely std Neo engine, the guy uses the same mechanic as I do, and I advised him of the flutter/surge b4 purchase. He absolutely loves the flutter, both off and on throttle (as he blocked the bov), and the car is making 265rwkw @ 15psi.

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