Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would a welded diff lock up under fast deceleration like the 2ways do??

also those people who have welded theyre skyline diff how long has yours lasted before leaving you stranded???

ill be doing this soon with a 320 odd rwkw r33, my current diff is too unreliable, breaking traction sometime/ sometimes not etc the usual probs.

Edited by humz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163618-lockedwelded-diff-question/
Share on other sites

lockers can be 1-way, which means they only lock under acceleration. a welded diff is always locked, of course.

I wouldn't do it to a car if I cared about the handling, you'll find yourself driving around the diff. but then, with 320rwkw you're probably having most of your fun in a straight line anyway :thumbsup:

i had a shithouse aussie borg warner diff that comes factory with r31 skyline

filled it with weld

worked for 3 years and was still working when i sold the car

2 of those years with a 240rwkw rb30det driving it

welded diff can be good provided the welding is done well

drift, yes.. it's reversing it across 4 lanes and into a telegraph pole I'm worried about.

you have to be a very sensible driver when you've got a locker. of course, many would debate my sanity in having ZE-326's fitted on a locked axle anyway..

  • 1 year later...

sorry to bring up an old topic.....well not really i need the info.

scenario is im sick of single spinning and losing power out of corners soooo... 2 questions

1. how much, and where in qld/sunny coast can i get my diff welded...can anyone do it?

2. is it possible to transplant a r31 diff into a s1.5 r33. why? the r31 diffs can be minispooled :down:

Edited by r33cruiser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...