Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Joeyz

Hi all, hope someone might be able to shed some light on this strange situation.

My engin light has been flickering on and of latley and only have noticed it when i am in 4th or 5th gear. Just cruising around and if i were to put my foot down to speed up it flickers.

Under hard acceleration through 1st to 5th gear it does not come on.

Has anbody had the same thing happen or can i get a few tip's on what to do?

Thanks in advanced.

post-35974-1176114434.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163821-r34-gtt-engin-light/
Share on other sites

the check engine light will come on to indicate knocking/pinging...its not good. The factory warning is set to come on at 60, which is pretty high...tuners like to keep it under 20 when tuning aftermarket ECU's

If its only happening in 4th or fifth gear, I'd say you're in the wrong gear to be accelerating that hard at the time, and putting too much load on the engine. if you were to drop back to 3rd and accelerate that hard, chances are you wouldn't get the knocking as it sounds like your car is fine the rest of the time....

Have you got an after market ECU and a tune? or still on the stock ECU?

Either way, its not good, so I wouldn't keep doing what you're doing...take it somewhere and get it checked out :stupid:

Guest Joeyz

I'v only had the car about 6 weeks and know that it has a APEXi Power FC.

You said that the car might be knocking, I can't hear any noises like that. I used to be a mechanic about 4 years ago and i'v heard what that should sound like and i can't?

I never worked on car's like this before or up untill i bought it.

I do have planed to take it to a dyno and get it tunned fairly soon though.

I'v only had the car about 6 weeks and know that it has a APEXi Power FC.

You said that the car might be knocking, I can't hear any noises like that. I used to be a mechanic about 4 years ago and i'v heard what that should sound like and i can't?

I never worked on car's like this before or up untill i bought it.

I do have planed to take it to a dyno and get it tunned fairly soon though.

you don't have the pfc hand controller do you? umm I seriously think there's a flaw in 34s pfc....I've heard ppls pfc sorta "detune itself" every few months, initially knocking at 5th then move down to 4th ..etc..

agree - definately knock

note ur load speed revs and gear to help the tuner out

i'd also consider in investing in the handcontroller (while they're still available)

feedback info on display very usefull (such as knock and water temp)

goodluck with it

Guest Joeyz
you don't have the pfc hand controller do you? umm I seriously think there's a flaw in 34s pfc....I've heard ppls pfc sorta "detune itself" every few months, initially knocking at 5th then move down to 4th ..etc..

Nah don't have one. Looks as though the previous owner didn't have one or sell it with the car. When you say hand controller is it conected to the PFC or not? Never seen one.

I suppose E-Bay or buy one brand new for the car?

I noticed this problem myself, except my engine light flashes very rapidly at the end of 1st and sometimes 2nd. Only saw it happen once or twice though, apparently the owner who I bought it off said his car would knock alot too. Is this a common R34 problem or could it be something on my end? As in the unit itself or the actual knock sensor?

Guest Joeyz

Hi all!

Thanks to all that replied about the engin light.

I was able to get my car dyno tuned today by Castle Hill Exhaust and he brought back the timming a bit so the light would not come on. All is good now! Yeah!

My car started at 178kw and the final outcome of the tune was 199.9kw at the rear wheels. Very Pleased.

Thanks again :P

post-35974-1176535432.jpg

Hi all!

Thanks to all that replied about the engin light.

I was able to get my car dyno tuned today by Castle Hill Exhaust and he brought back the timming a bit so the light would not come on. All is good now! Yeah!

My car started at 178kw and the final outcome of the tune was 199.9kw at the rear wheels. Very Pleased.

Thanks again :P

What sort of work has been done to the car to acheive those figures?

Hey mate...I wouldn't be running 15psi through the stock turbo...unless you want it to fail and have to replace it.....generally the safe limit for them is about 12psi...you might find you'll make more power on lower boost too....I make 200-205rwkw with the same mods on an R33 at 12psi...

Guest Joeyz
What sort of work has been done to the car to acheive those figures?

It has a front mount intercooler, 3inch exhaust all the way through, Apexi power FC computer, K & N Air filter, HKS Blow off valve.

When dyno'd on saturday, it was running at 1 bar and now it has been adjusted to 15psi.

Guest Joeyz
Hey mate...I wouldn't be running 15psi through the stock turbo...unless you want it to fail and have to replace it.....generally the safe limit for them is about 12psi...you might find you'll make more power on lower boost too....I make 200-205rwkw with the same mods on an R33 at 12psi...

I don't understand how i will make around the same power running less boost :thumbsup: can you tell me how that is?

I still am learning a lot about the car, only had it 6weeks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...