Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Cover Fittings!

PM-R33

By PM-R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

Need some quick help here, should be easily answered by someone. Im just in the process of doing a bit of engine work on the car while its off of the road and i've nearly finished but have a small problem. Im fitting up an oil catch can to the RB25 cam covers because i dont want oil blow by going through the new gear (I know how to hook it up correctly so this isn't the point of this thread before u start flaming me :P)

What i want to know is how everyone has fitted aftermarket fittings into the cam covers??

I rand around to a couple of places and they all told me that they only make fittings with threads, no smooth edges..

The standard fittings have a smooth edge and just slip into the covers, however i dont want to use these standard fittings but something like some speedflow fittings or something. However i think that all of these aftermarket fittings have threads on them, so my main question is, has everyone made threads in their cam covers to fit different fittings for catch cans?? Or do they make fittings with a smooth thread??

Hopefully i have made sense of what im trying to ask.

Thanks guys

Phil

(I've attatched a photo but im pretty sure everyone knows what i mean)

post-35676-1176435088.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164383-cam-cover-fittings/
Share on other sites
nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its easy enough, (im still deciding if i should use fittings in my cam covers, i would like to but they are so exspensive!), if i was going to do mine i would use the following, 2 x -10 male / 1/2npt (so the 1/2npt side would go into the cam cover and the -10 side would be left hanging out of the cam cover, then get 2 x -10 90degree fittings which will obviously screw onto the -10 cam cover fitting.

You would possibly need to take the cam covers off and take them to a engineer or someone similar and get them to thread the holes the same size as your male/male fittings, they may also need to remove the cam cover baffels to thread the holes and make sure no metal fillings/threads get stuck in the baffels.

I would just get the spare hole in the side of the cam cover (the stock pcv valve go in here) blocked off, either get a little bung made up to replace the pcv valve, or get the hole welded up etc etc.

By the way, im not quite sure which sized fittings you would need to go into the cam cover, i was using 1/2npt as an example, but that might possibly fit.

Edited by nizmo_freek
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers guys, yeah thats the main idea i was thinking and seems to be what every one on here has done (looked at a lot of photos of engine bays and yeah its what most people have done).

Only thing its a lot of mucking around just to hook up an oil catch can...hmmmmm still a bit undecided but i might have to get them threaded.

Much appreciated guys.

PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

Posted
Posted

Braided lines are not just for use with high pressure applications. They provide a protective shield for the lines themselves, prevent bulging, looks good, extends the lifetime of the hose and will not allow the hose to crack and leak like some normal hoses do. This is even more important when your dealing with your engines life blood in a high performance car. Hence the reason, I'm going to replace the majority of my hoses with braided equivalents.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How do the std fittings come off?

I tried pulling them off but all they did was spin...

Mayb I hadnt eaten my weetbix...

Since they are smooth and dont have an actual thread, once they start spinning just pull them upwards and should slip straight out :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Welcome back brother 
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...