Project 24

[murrayis]

Not 1 less - No Oil support ring what so ever.... Had the top and bottom ring and the expander

[murrayis]

So A little update, I've needed to purchase new Rods and Pistons. Rods have arrived and pistons should be leaving the USA today fingers crossed.

I'm still to track down a CAS and knock sensors but after that we should be good to go full steam to the finish line.

[GTScotT]

What model CAS do you need?

[murrayis]

honestly i have no idea...rb20det? the original had a black circle in the mide, i think its a mitsu?

[GTScotT]

Yeah they are mitsu items. I have a couple but I'm not sure if they are the correct model...

[murrayis]

previous cas had a 24+1 disc in it and i see aem do a disc for the rb25 but dont know if it would suite the rb20 cas body

[StevenCJR31]

^^ numbers on the cas will tell you?

[murrayis]

i dont have the cas to compare

[White GTS-T]

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-cam-crank-angle-sensor-cas-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gtst-gts4-gts25-r33-gtr-gts25t-gts4-p-1176.html

[murrayis]

Yep not cheap..

[White GTS-T]

Gives you the part numbers to work off though.

[murrayis]

So The pistons finally arrived from the USA - Wow USA > Brisbane in 3 days Thanks Fedex!

Pistons, Rods & Bearings have been sent to the machine shop to finalize all machine work, This should all be complete in a week fingers crossed I'll have everything ready to be assembled.

Still deciding to build myself or find a workshop to install the rotating assembly, Everything else is fairly straight forward.

I've been looking at trigger wheel configurations as an alternative to a new CAS and have found that Next Up performance here in Brisbane has an off the shelf solution for half the cost of other configurations from ROSS.

Tossing up if it is really worth the month for the build....

Edited November 14, 2013 by murrayis

[GTScotT]

Assemble yourself mate. There is definitely no better way.

I believe in it so much I have stocked up on tools just for doing that. Bolt stretch gauge, good torque wrench, micrometers, run out gauge, degree wheel kit. All stuff that proves invaluable. As they say, if you want the job done right you need to do it yourself

P.S. Having finished the build on my own car earlier this year I would definitely have spent more on an ecu and trigger setup had I known what I know now. I've driven a couple of cars with crank triggers and they are a LOT more crisp and willing to rev. Tunes are that much closer to the bleeding edge of peak performance, if your tuner is up to the task.

Chanel the funds from assembly to the crank trigger and take all the glory.

[murrayis]

Yea I am tempted to do it myself as long as I can find all the correct torque settings etc.

$700 + sensors & wiring for the trigger wheel config from Next Up or $1300 from Ross.

[GTScotT]

Go the cheaper one. It's a hall effect sensor and a trigger wheel, the majority of the work is done by the ECU. So unless the shit is made poor quality and lack luster in terms of fitment then there should be no issue.

Shame its an anchor, ETS make a trigger for the tractor motors and its dirt cheap.

Torque settings are nothing. Just identify your bolts against their parts listings and you will have all your torque settings. Piece of piss. Just make sure you know how to measure them though... Not like me, I took the wrong measurement on my rod bolts and torqued against the wrong part number. No harm done though, am in the process of rectifying now. I just wish they'd publish more info on identifying the bolt they supply. My rods came with a generic spec sheet for about 20 different bolts, and measurements used to identify each but no instructions on how to properly measure them

[murrayis]

Yea Main Studs, Head Studs and Big End Studs are ARP so shouldn't be a problem identifying which is which - That was my main concern do you go by the OEM or the Bolt/Stud Specs so that clears that up.

Now to see if I can clean the NITTO head Gasket or if I need a new one.

[GTScotT]

To be honest I would replace it. I had a look on the Nitto website and like most other MLS gaskets it has a LIGHT composite layer just to seal the slight imperfections between surfaces.. Once they get heat through them you never get that back no matter what it looks like.

After having built a few motors and done a lot of reading (post realising the faux pas on my tractor) I can confirm you need to go on bolt specs. Bolts are essentially springs which provide pre-load when securing 2 parts, which is achieved by a level of stretch. Think of it like you holding a spring in your hands and pulling it outwards.. To achieve a set amount of resistance from the spring you will need to pull it a specific distance which also has a relationship to the amount of force required to make it move (hence why some MFG's advertise a degree post torque setting). So in clearest thought its definitely the bolt MFG who determines the optimal parameters.

It's not that delicate though (trying not to scare you). I was having the same thoughts when building the tractor and did a lot of experimenting. I found that degreeing the crank mains to Nissan specs took 60ft/lbs of torque, which was exactly what was specified elsewhere. Go figure *rolls eyes*

[Roy]

Keep it simple and stop buying and trying sh1t that is only going to keep it and you off the road longer.

Std CAS..Pay someone very vredible to do the rings on your pistons and rhen volt it together yourslef. Not hard but easy to get wrong. Rings are only thing that experience pays....

[murrayis]

I tend to agree Roy - However to go to 9000+ rpm i'd want to get a New CAS to be safe as alot I've gone to buy have iffy bearings and a new CAS is $400 - $600

For the Rings 100% agree and I just need to find someone to take care of that.

[GTScotT]

Rings are easy! You just need a good eye and decent tools. You will need the following:

- A ring grinder (I used a dremel rock on a cordless at low speed, balls)

- A high quality feeler gauge

- A nylon or urethane hammer (a small thing)

You press the ring into the bore and use the piston to level it 100%, tapping it down slowly with the nylon hammer. Use the ring lands as your level with your eye.. Once its level remove the piston and very carefully slide your gauge in at 90 degrees. DO NOT twist of flex the feeler gauges, it will twist the ring which you have carefully made level and make your gaps off.

If you tell me your bore diameter I can make a recommendation to the ring gaps if needed.