Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a new paint job?

hard to say really, the amount of money you put into mods your not gonna make it back when you re-sell it. your lucky if you just break even. thats why everyone takes em off and sell them seperately. also the amount of cars now for sale already have mods so the next thing if not first for people to compare is overall condition of car and engine.

Adding performance mods won't really increase value, well, at least not in a way that'll make a profit. The money you spend on the mod will not be recovered.

The reason being that people want to buy a car that has not been thrashed..... Usually because they want to be the one to thrash it.

If you're looking at increasing the value of the car, you can either make it more pristine, or you can go the dodgy and cover up faults.

You may get the money back on highflowing the turbo, because people generally don't like ceramic turbos, and it's only about 1.5K

other than that, replacing the leather boots and tidying up the interior will add value, also any body rust that can be removed.

It's really only neatening up, not really modding.

Having said all that, it's really depending on what people are willing to pay.

a new paint job?

Only if its in the factory colour, or you strip the car down and get everything painted (and even then you won't make a profit on it since that kind of paint job is going to cost you a fortune).

Otherwise, if potential buyers find the exterior paint a different colour to the interior paint (like the door sills, engine bay, etc) they'll assume its been resprayed due to an accident repair....and there goes your resale value.

I'm just wondering what parts or modifications can add value to the car?

A history. Some people will pay well over market for a car that's been owned by someone famous or something.

Or if the car becomes a cult classic. Look at the Takumi tax on AE86s - ever since Initial D came out the price for those nuggets have skyrocketed. Same with classic cars like MGBs, or old Monaros, XY GT Falcons, etc.

Aside from that, you've got buckleys of improving resale on a vehicle.

Simple rule when it comes to cars. Any money you spend on upgrading them is essentially lost money. So unless you do all the work yourself fitting up whatever you will certainly lose money.

Best bet is to get it clean & neat. If you have to spend a few hundred dollars on panel & paint then so be it. Beyond that & fixing any glaring faults, just leave it alone. That is pretty much what the car yards do - which tells you all you need to know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...