Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads Specificlly Dc2500s Vs Rb74s

dangerous_daveo
 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Hi all.

Did my normal search, yes I know how to use it properly.

Real quick and easy question which only some people will be able to answer.

With cold braking, how bad (or good) are the DS2500s in compairson to the RB74s? I've previously had RB74s and didnt really have a problem with them cold. I just had to remember to stand on the brakes at the end of my street, after that they were fine. From what I have found out, the DS2500s are a better pad for everything else. Just cold braking...

So really all Im asking is. If you have had RB74s and DS2500s in your car, for cold braking which was worse or better.

Thanks.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

I've run RB74 and am running DS2500 on street now. And honestly i'm not impressed with the DS2500, they have no 'bite' maybe i've got a bad set. Don't get me wrong they stop me fine, but i have to put a bit of pressure on the pedal, even if warm.... where as when i put DS3000 in for track days, they bite nice and hard... doesn't take much pressure on the pedal.... but maybe i got a bad set?

The RB74 i found the same as you, hit them the first time and they are average, but after that they are ok...

I think i'm going to give endless a go for street pads when the DS2500 are out...

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Well I replaced my RB74's with DS2500's. I found the Ferodo pad to be quieter, work & recover better at high temperatures, work better from cold & have good feel.

The key is to bed them in properly. If you don't you will suffer from the maladies listed above.

They are a better pad than the RB74.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

oh. i can confirm this lack of bite. i have them on the rear of mine in ap 4 pots. and performance friction carbon metalics in the front.

for the life of me i cant get the rears to lock.

hence my master cyl thread

thays with 50/50 pressures. the pfc in the alcons just work to well. but im gettinfg some diferant rears with bigger pistons so theres more pressure aplied to the pad. curantly ive got 41.3/44.5 front and 27/27 in the rears. changing to 30/34 in the rear.

i want to get it to lock up so i can tune it properly. rite now all it does is cook the fronts cos the rears just arnt being efective at all.

any idaes?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

I personally think the DS2500 are a great pad, had no problems at all. But my car barely sees the road more than 5 times a month, so anything brakes better than my work car :nyaanyaa: .

On the track the DS2500 worked VERY well, i was very impressed.

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

I have the 2500's... yeah not as much 'bite' as normal street pads but they are very linear... push harder and you slow down more;) didn't give me any problems at PI and I used them more than I should of because I was scared! lol

I hate spongy, bitey pads on the street... euros always have that soft peddle feel, I don't like it... and they tend to be much more dusty

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
oh. i can confirm this lack of bite. i have them on the rear of mine in ap 4 pots. and performance friction carbon metalics in the front.

for the life of me i cant get the rears to lock.

hence my master cyl thread

thays with 50/50 pressures. the pfc in the alcons just work to well. but im gettinfg some diferant rears with bigger pistons so theres more pressure aplied to the pad. curantly ive got 41.3/44.5 front and 27/27 in the rears. changing to 30/34 in the rear.

i want to get it to lock up so i can tune it properly. rite now all it does is cook the fronts cos the rears just arnt being efective at all.

any idaes?

Why put in a caliper with larger pots if you are already having issues with a lack of rear bias? It will only make it worse.

Check the pads aren't glazed & try removing some pad material fron the area closest to the hub ie increase the effective working diameter of the pad.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've also had the ECB red stuff recomended, along with a halk pad, cant remember which one?

So lets throw them in there too. From what I have found they are all about the same level. With maybe the DS2500 being a bit more track friendly than street friendly.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted
Well I replaced my RB74's with DS2500's. I found the Ferodo pad to be quieter, work & recover better at high temperatures, work better from cold & have good feel.

The key is to bed them in properly. If you don't you will suffer from the maladies listed above.

They are a better pad than the RB74.

I thought i bedded them in properly, same way i usually bed in pads, go out do some big stops, get them cooking, then let them cool down without braking.... usually works.... Do you think i should try roughing them up and bedding in again? Maybe i'm just used to the bityness of the DS3000s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...