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looking at buying my old mans 33, he is old and fussy so i know its been well cared for, what more good reason to do it?

its a practically stock 95' R33 auto, it already has a microtech comp in it, and a cat back 3'exhaust and split pulse dump pipe, now i am plannin to add FMIC, 3"front pipe+3" cat, highflow turbo, injectors and larger fuel pump, could these mods see me too atleast 230rwkw and possibly upwards?

cheers mick

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looking at running around 17psi i am sure the highflow would be in about the meat of its effeciency at this point. no way am i feeling down about an auto. got a VL turbo in the shed with 300kw thats a 5 speed and would much rather an auto in it,

boostd-its a 4 speed auto, how much power did you have to run 12.2?

id definitely get an auto trans cooler and a temp gauge installed next if you plan to be giving the auto a bit. the heat kills the boxes. with a shift kit/valve body upgrade they are unstoppable.

the mods you listed should see you into the 250's quite easily.

looking at running around 17psi i am sure the highflow would be in about the meat of its effeciency at this point. no way am i feeling down about an auto. got a VL turbo in the shed with 300kw thats a 5 speed and would much rather an auto in it,

boostd-its a 4 speed auto, how much power did you have to run 12.2?

The 4 speeds are stronger from factory so u should b able to run that power without cracking the trans open...and a trans cooler would preserve it some more.

I did that time with 244rwkw a 2800rpm stall and cheapo chinese street tyres.

when your going around a corner and your not on the throttle much if the revs are going down it can change gears on you- so if your just just hanging onto the corner it will spin you out of controll and its pretty hard to catch.

what do you mean?
when your going around a corner and your not on the throttle much if the revs are going down it can change gears on you- so if your just just hanging onto the corner it will spin you out of controll and its pretty hard to catch.

wrong...

my s1 r33 auto has never done that once in its life, and will only kick back in gears at full throttle, or if you drop down to below about 20kmph.

they are a very predictable trans and i highly rate them once there modded....

thats why i asked for it to be explained, it hasnt happened to me. it wont happen if you know how to handle the auto.

you can predict when it will kick down.

playing with the TPS can adjust the kick down (although you wont get 100% throttle), but not completely stop it.

i was asking about the track killing the autos from heat. does anyone have any tips besides a tans cooler and a temperature gauge?

Sorry, what I meant is if you are going sideways in a manual and slightly back off it will reduce wheel spin and straighten up in a controlled manner, however an auto on backoff lets off alot more on slight throttle decreases due to the stall convertor and causes snap back. Mine has a high stall which I'm sure makes it even worse.

what do u mean wrong, mine has done it before. what you talkin about u clown don't just come on and say someone is wrong maybe urs doesn't do it but i know personally of four cars that do

you and your mates car may need a trans service and some adjusting.

the skyline should never kick back a gear unless you want it too. as i said before either by flooring it , or by slowing down to around 20kmph.

If your trans is downshifting at speed with no throttle then you have some other issues that needs looking at.

as suggested TPS, fluid level etc.

cheers

The Clown....

Sorry, what I meant is if you are going sideways in a manual and slightly back off it will reduce wheel spin and straighten up in a controlled manner, however an auto on backoff lets off alot more on slight throttle decreases due to the stall convertor and causes snap back. Mine has a high stall which I'm sure makes it even worse.

it all comes down to practice.

with the auto you need to drive thru the slide and power out the other end.

while with the manual you can more play with the throttle and feed it on and off thru the corner.

both work well but you need to adjust your driving accordingly.

If your car will spin the wheels in drive then it becomes easier to control to a point , at which you get to much forward momentum and then that creates its own issues.

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