Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is only $7.5K if sold before Christmas. Can deliver anywhere between Canberra and Coffs Harbour for the cost of petrol only!!!

Series One.

Details

103,000 kms

RB20DET

Manual.

Full 3"mandrel bent exhaust. Nice sound and excelent fit.

Adjustable Cam Gears.

Bosch 040 fuel pump.

550 cc injectors just fitted.

remapped computer to match injectors and to fix stock tune.

Uni Pro Foam Filter.

boost raised to 9 psi with bleed valve.

TEIN coilovers.

Strut braces front and rear.

18" wheels.

Adjustable front sway bar.

APEXI turbo timmer.

JVC Head Unit with USB

Fusion Speakers.

Imobiliser just fitted with remote entry.

Work completed with reciepts

Manual Conversion ($750 in labour alone) - Tempi Jap Wreckers

100K service done 2k ago - timming belt, plugs, water pump and all that. Cost about $1400. Trojen Motorsport.

Brake master cylinder rebuild ($400+). Trojen Motorsport

New benex ultimate pads on the front and all frour disks machined.

550cc injectors serviced and fitted (new seals) along with a bit of wiring ($400). Trojen Motorsport

New front diff seal, drive shaft boots, castor rod bushes, and a full wheel alignment. ($400 aprox). Capital Steering and Suspension.

I am the first owner to do any mods to this car and it was 100% stock when I got it. Right down to the Nissan Exhaust. I havne't put many ks on it, but another car that I really want has come up so I thought I would put this up and see if there is any interest. It is an awsome car to drive, but there are some things you just have to let go.

There are a couple of holes in thr font bumper. Nothing major, but I'll put you can see it in the pics. It comes with a spare bumper in better nic.

Also have a full set of Coupe rear pannels (including tail lights) to do the conversion.

Open to Offers around the $7.5K

Give me a call on 0410 463 334 if you have any questions or would like a look and a drive.

med_gallery_34272_1557_235531.jpg

med_gallery_34272_1557_15457.jpg

Edited by 1JRocket

Have seen this car before, nice looking stockish 4 door, apart from the bumper holes and the odd dent in the back as mentioned. Sad to see it go, not many at all in canberra.

would you be interested in a trade for an S15? cash adjustment my way:

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=196935

That is a beautiful S15. I appreciate the offer, but I don't have the cash to do the balance, though it would be tempting to get a loan. Thanks, but no thanks.

  • 1 month later...
So this is a 4WD 4 door? so the power figure was at all 4 wheels?

The power figure was on a 2wd dyno with the fuse pulled for the ATESA. We don't have many 4wd dynos in Canberra >_<

Edited by 1JRocket
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Also comes with a two wheel steering pump for if someone wants to take out the HICAS. A few other spares too.

Just had all new seals put into the injectors.

Email or call for more info...

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Christmas Special Price. Only available 'till the new year.

Also, can deliver anywhere between Canberra and Coffs Harbour since I'll be going that way on the 22nd.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...