Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently building an RB25/30 for my 32, would a standard GTR plenum fit on an RB20 25 or 30? if so wouldn't that be the best bet with the multiple throttle bodies? or some thing simpler like a greddy?

i would also like to no if a gtr plenum could go straight onto a 25?? also the ebay "greddy" plenums they say they are a copy, good or bad idea

Seriously dont know why people bother with these cut and shut stock plenums. If you want a forward facing plenum then fair enough, so do I, but if your going to do it then do it properly and get something like a Greddy or Plazmaman plenum. These companies have spent lots of time and money trying to perfect the flow characteristic of their product and saved you all the hard work, so I think the extra money is well worth it.

Plus they look a shitload better than modified stock, plazmaman especially.

l_78f349979a4eefeed31e2ef1cc65eecc.jpg

Here is my plenum... I'm not sure what it is as the previous owner just said it was 'custom'. It's using the standard throttle body.... my head gasket just blew the other night... not sure if this is related to the damages as im still trying to grasp a better understanding on mechanics.

l_78f349979a4eefeed31e2ef1cc65eecc.jpg

Here is my plenum... I'm not sure what it is as the previous owner just said it was 'custom'. It's using the standard throttle body.... my head gasket just blew the other night... not sure if this is related to the damages as im still trying to grasp a better understanding on mechanics.

Feck me, nice car to be "learning teh mechanics" theres some heat in that bay for sure

  • 2 months later...
yes gtr plenum can fit onto an rb25 head. Blitz makes a bolt-on adopter kit its worth about $700 and then you have to buy the gtr plenum and sort out the injectors . and blitz made a comment that it wont work with a std ecu

Do you or somebody else do know where i can get this Blitz adapter kit ? I would be very thankful if somebody could help me.

Edited by Behind Horizon

I would not like to use the std plenum just sealed at the center and a hole put for the inlet at the front because of obvious uneven distribution.

I built my plenum with care to try to avoid this problem but probably would have been better to buy Plasmaman/Subzero etc.

i'm just checking that you really think it has lowered intake temps by 30 degrees?

exactly how and where did you measure this?

ps. i have measured mine at the plenum so i have a pretty good idea why you won't lower intake temps by 30 degrees when you remove a little pipework.

i'm just checking that you really think it has lowered intake temps by 30 degrees?

exactly how and where did you measure this?

ps. i have measured mine at the plenum so i have a pretty good idea why you won't lower intake temps by 30 degrees when you remove a little pipework.

well i guest you dont tune cars then sore the temp drop on my haltech,mates ems and motec all 10sec cars guest that proves that it works

hey bud i have used a cut standard one for the past 2 years without any problems and so have a some of my friends. your intake temps will drop by about 30 degress which = hp

When was the last time you tore down the motor to check for uneven wear to back up your claims?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...