Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As BB says, horses for courses. I am more regularly at 120-130 degrees towards the end of a session whereas he is more around the 105-115 I'm guessing.

spot on. On track I'm up around the 115 mark at max, but oil pressure is still a steady 6 bar at anything above 3,000rpm (which is all the time).

I wouldn't worry too much about winter oil/summer oil your car pretty much runs the same temps summer or winter, maybe water temp get's up a bit in summer traffic. but even startup temps would only be 10degrees difference at most.

maybe try the 10W40 one trackday and see what the oil pressure is like?

Sorry I meant 15w50. It's the 300v Competition. I have been thinking about using the Chrono for winter but my car has always run fairly hot so I appreciate the extra thickness at high temp. I probably should use a better quality oil cooler but the one I have works ok and the 15w50 gives me the protection I need.

I do notice quite high oil pressure when cold and am particularly careful when warming up the car because when using a thicker oil like this I think the turbo is more suseptible to damage due to lack of oil flow. I never boost at all before the water is up to temp and would be lucky to hit 0.3bar before the oil temp has risen.

As BB says, horses for courses. I am more regularly at 120-130 degrees towards the end of a session whereas he is more around the 105-115 I'm guessing.

Thanks for the explaination.

I do use the 15w50 300v Competion oil, for my R32 GTR. Just Jap use it for thier GTR's that run in Targa and seems to be good.

I spoke the guy at Green Goanna and he said that he does not stock the Motul brand oil. But he suggested to use Shell Helix Ultra 15w50 for $205 incl GST for 20L. The Shell oil is used in alot of the rally cars.

Has anyone used this oil?

Cheers

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

Nope Tafe is being a pain in the ass with financial year end coming up as well as new rules.. they are trying to work a way around it atm... I will post in this thread after dad goes back to work .. think school hols start next week.... or the week after... can never remember!

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys try Harold at performancelub.com.... Royal purple is 10.90$ for a quart (946ml)... this guy imports his stuff form America.

he is located in Melbourne, but even with postage he is cheaper then most places.

Cheers.

I picked up some Mobil 1 0w40 for 54$ (i picked it up though).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...