Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It Safe To Use 4 Car Stands At Once

made_guy

By made_guy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Duke_R32 Apprentice

Duke_R32

Posted
Posted

That what the car stands are for, so u can safely work under them as they wont collapse like a jack can.

theres no real difference in safety with working under a hoist or car stands, they both go under the jacking points of the vehicle

just make sure you jack the car up on level ground and have all the stands equal hights.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

I am very concerned with the safety of myself. Dropping my car is my biggest fear. From reading my replies to the trolley jack thread, you can see i don't skimp on safety.

I have 3 big trolley jacks, and 2 small ones.

Normally when I jack the front of the car up, it gets one big trolley jack in the middle of the member, 2 stands on either side of the big jack on the member, and 2 small trolley jacks under various points. I would put the others under there too, but then there's not enough room to work on the car.

If I have the car up on 4, I use 4 stands. I still have one big jack in the middle of the cross member too. I also chuck a big jack under the diff, and I chuck the 2 small jacks to the side. I'll just use the last big jack under something random just for safety, incase if my other 4 stands and 4 jacks fail. hahaha.

made_guy Experienced

made_guy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

aye carumba manwhore!! that made me dizzey!

well i bought my 4 stands and a 2.5t trolley jack so i could do my g/b oil and fit my exhaust myself when i get it too. so i might put it up on all four to see how it looks when i do the g/b oil - if i feel unsafe, i'll bring it down onto two stands. my drive-way is pretty much level....

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I certainly wouldn't use only two... four is the magic number!

You really don't EVER want to be under your car while it's being fully or partially supported by a jack.

I know how you feel though... tiny little surface of the stands holding your car up, and it looks dodgy the first few times you do it... but a mate of mine helped me get over it.

Under his car, bracing against the wall, with a breaker bar trying to undo something... whole car shakes around on the stands.. but it doesn't budge. Same thing getting the gearbox out of my car.

So now I do the same.. jack it up, 4 stands, then release the jack a little so it's about 1cm from the diff or whatever you're jacking from, and then give the car a bit of a shove. It won't budge. ;o)

sam5709 Grand Master

sam5709

Posted
Posted
If u are changing the gearbox oil just jack up the front , by time time u jack the back of the car up u could have the oil out

wouldnt jacking the car up on two stands make draining and filling the gearbox oil uneven because the car is tilted

Duke_R32 Apprentice

Duke_R32

Posted
Posted

having 4 jacks and 4 stands under your car will restrict the amount of room you have to move around, sounds kinda stupid if u ask me. if your that scared to get under a car which is on 4 car stands then make friends with a mechanic and ask to use their hoist on a sat or weeknight.

if the car is on level ground and the stands are in the right positions then you should not have a problem.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

If you are really worried about it get a real spare or even another cars spare and sit that next to you under the car if it manages to fall off the stands spare will give you a chance as the car wont fall so far when changing tyres on the side of a road this is also a good idea as disks can get easily damaged if the car falls of the jack.

4wheel drive wheel or nice wide rims are of course better

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted
having 4 jacks and 4 stands under your car will restrict the amount of room you have to move around, sounds kinda stupid if u ask me. if your that scared to get under a car which is on 4 car stands then make friends with a mechanic and ask to use their hoist on a sat or weeknight.

if the car is on level ground and the stands are in the right positions then you should not have a problem.

I have the equipment, so why not use it?

Let me tell you, if i have the whole car up, 4 jacks and 4 stands hardly takes up much room at all. You're literally talking 1 jack and 1 stand per corner. Plenty of room where it counts.

I have not found room to be of an issue.

I would say yes, it is overkill, stupid no. If I hvae the equipment, why not use it to make it safer (provided it doesn't get in the way - which it doesn't).

stingray Collaborator

stingray

Posted
Posted

I still haven't figured out where to place the stands for the rear of the car. This is on an R32 by the way. I've used a trolley jack on the diff before to change the wheels, but I've never had to work under the rear of the car so I've never lowered it onto stands. Where do you place your stands for the rear of the car?

godzl1975 Experienced

godzl1975

Posted
Posted

dont think really good idea to use the diff as the point to jack up the car...there is a centre point just in front of the diff to jack rear up..if car is too low then...drive on couple pavers to bring the car up abit....I did my G/B oil with ramps to the front only, thought about jacking the back up and using stands to level but didnt need too. 4 stands is the go and have a jack or 2 in some key points, pre load it abit, just in case something does happen to the stands the jack/s will take up the weight

Jdfnq Proficient

Jdfnq

Posted
Posted

yeah 4 stands is pretty dangerous......

seen it fail before....

one good tweak of the wrench and it could be goodnight irene!!!!

best find a mate with a proper hoist, or use just two stands where at least there are two wheels on the gorund to give the car some balance......

you could always just test it by putting it on for stands and just leaning agianst the car :)

stingray Collaborator

stingray

Posted
Posted
dont think really good idea to use the diff as the point to jack up the car...there is a centre point just in front of the diff to jack rear up..if car is too low then...drive on couple pavers to bring the car up abit....I did my G/B oil with ramps to the front only, thought about jacking the back up and using stands to level but didnt need too. 4 stands is the go and have a jack or 2 in some key points, pre load it abit, just in case something does happen to the stands the jack/s will take up the weight

Why isn't it a good idea to use the rear diff? It's been recommended by many people on this forum to use as the rear jacking point. I've had a look at the manual and I just realised the picture shows jacking point is indeed slighty pass the the diff. I've always assumed using the diff was fine. Well it's been ok for me so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...